I believe it actually was proposed when we were brainstorming this build, but I don't recall why we moved off of it. Could be we had trouble finding either the case or GPU in stock at the time we ordered the components.
Stay tuned -- with DreamHack Austin only a couple months away, we're planning a few SFF/"portable LAN" builds to get ready.
GT 730s! Where are they?
GT 730s! Where are they?
Safe and sound where they belong, last I checked.
It might be doable, but could be pretty tight depending on the clearance from the motherboard/RAM at the top. Another option if you need to allow more GPU length space and don't need all the drive bays, would be mount the radiator in the second chamber (removing some drive cages), mounting it to the top of front on that side. [ Example using a different, but similar sized CLC in the Node 804 -- look at picture #8. ]
Most slim/slot load drives should fit. The compatibility check should be able to help you pick a valid option if you've already added the case to your system.
The H110i v2 will have a cable that goes from the CPU block to the motherboard fan/pump header, and a splitter for the two radiator fans to connect to the CPU block. (Example from another recent build where we used the H110i v2).
Sorry to hear you're having issues with your build. I'd recommend posting your question in our Troubleshooting forum to get some help diagnosing the problem.
Yes -- all the RGB lighting zones can be turned off.
That's a Williams WRS-1 Magnetic Ratcheting screwdriver. It is much loved around the office.
We installed it using a USB key. You can buy Windows 10 on USB, or just buy a license and create the bootable USB key yourself if you have a spare 4 or 8GB key laying around.
We created a guide on YouTube a while back you can use to see how it's done. It covers installing a media center setup as well, but the first part covers installing Windows 10 via USB.
Not sure which one we used exactly, but it was likely a Silverstone of Noctua splitter we had on hand from a previous build.
For CPU temps, what were you seeing? Were you running the latest BIOS?
I doubt we ever actually tested the secondary drive on this build beyond seeing it in the BIOS (we typically only install the OS and any needed games/benchmarks onto the primary drive during our testing).
But as Dusk359 already mentioned, two ports will get disabled with the M.2 drive present. You might just try to other ports to see if that's what you've run into. Each port is also configurable to be enabled/disabled in the BIOS ("SATA and RST Configuration" under the Peripherals section), so you might make sure everything is enabled appropriately.
If you are just looking for the same brand/design, newegg does sell their "knight armor" style Team Dark memory with a red accent instead.
The case fan hub has a connector that plugs into one of the System/Chassis headers. It's acting as a splitter for the assorted case fans to just be controlled by a single fan header. For example, with our board, we used SYS_FAN3 @5:14.
Which board aren't you seeing?
Sorry -- missed your question here. Yes, we're using CPU_FAN to control the radiator fans and CPU_OPT to control the pump via the UEFI/BIOS and "Smart Fan" software Gigabyte offers. It also manages the case fans which we connected (via the Phanteks case hub) to SYS_FAN3. (All the fan headers on the board support PWM or Voltage mode, btw.)
No, you'd have to add your own adapter for WIFI with this motherboard.
Oh, interesting. Thanks for the update -- glad to hear everything is working now!
Congrats on your first build! Though sorry to hear it's having issues. That does seem pretty odd. We did most of the bench tests on this system via HDMI without issue. Did you build it with or without the riser?
You might look for advice in the troubleshooting forum, as it could really be any number of things and that would be a better place to get help. (PM me the thread if you do and I'll chime in if I can be of help).
are the Thermalake hub/controllers on the backside for managing the cooler?
are the Thermalake hub/controllers on the backside for managing the cooler?
Kind of -- the Thermaltake hub is splitting fan control from the motherboard header (@5:48 and @8:17 in the build video), giving the motherboard control over the radiator fans' speed. The buttons you see on the hub only control the RGB LED color / pattern.
Howdy xavier -- welcome to the site!
The case we used in this build already includes 3 fans pre-installed. There are two at the front of the case, pulling air in and pushing it across the motherboard (and GPU). There's another at the back of the case, exhausting air out of the back.
The radiator for the Thermaltake closed loop water cooler ("CLC") for the CPU is mounted at the top of the case, and adds three more fans exhausting air out the top of the case.
(1)/(3)/(6) For "swapping-out" compatibility questions, the easiest thing to do for most of these questions is take our part list and edit it to see what's compatible. Also, for feedback on your specific build, I'd recommend heading over to the forums where you can get a good variety of ideas and thoughts.
(2) We chose the Plextor so we could showcase NVME performance. Depending on the specific model we are comparing against, the Plextor M8Pe should be about 4 times faster than the 850-EVO on reads and 2-3 times faster on writes. It's not likely to perform quite as good as the 860's that are just starting to show up at retailers, but given the current prices, it's a pretty good value for the performance boost at the moment.
(4) That's a pretty subjective thing to answer, but the black/white + RGB nature of the Gigabyte/Aorus Z270X Gaming 7 motherboard gives you a lot of leeway. It would definitely complement a white case nicely as well.
(5) If you're looking at other models, you'd need to double check what's included, but I believe the assorted variants of the Enthoo Evolv ATX come with 3 fans (two mounted in the front, on in the back). That's pretty decent coverage, especially with a radiator/AIO cooler added in the mix. Of course, if you want to replace the existing fans with LED fans, then that would work as well.
I wouldn't be concerned about the i5 being a limited factor in Overwatch.. but I ran a few quick rounds at lower settings to see where the breaking point would be for 144Hz. Dropping the settings to 1080p/Medium/100% resolution scale saw a pretty reliable 165-175 frame rate. Just FYI, it was close at 1080p/High/100% -- where I saw ~135fps. You could probably tweak between Medium/High to get satisfactory results.
Perhaps we need a sign: [ 3 ] days since our last accident.
No worries, but it'll probably be early next week before I'll have a chance to bench it.
More likely an accidental button press. :)
Are you asking if the LED strip would work with an Aura header on ASUS motherboard? Or if the Aura-ready strips would work on this motherboard?
These are RGBW strips, so they are 5-pin instead of the 4-pin type that you'd get with the typical RGB strips used with Aura headers (CableMod Widebeams, etc). The Gigabyte motherboard supports both 4 and 5 pin strips, with the ability to re-order the R/G/B pins via software if needed; just make sure it's a 12V strip, not 5V (such as the HUE+ uses).
This would best be answered in the forums rather than on a blog post. Head over to the Create a Part List For Me forum, read the posting guidelines topic, then click the "Start a New Topic" button to post your question. Thanks!
It should be back up now. Sorry about that.
Correct, each of the M.2 slots on this board share bandwidth with a corresponding 6GB SATA port that will be disabled if the M.2 slot is populated. (You should get an informational warning about this situation when adding the motherboard to your part list.)
Sorry, no giveaways are currently planned. Glad you enjoyed the build though!
It varies. Some systems (or at least parts) end up getting used around our office for assorted needs and projects. Some parts (especially CPUs) might get re-boxed to use in future builds where appropriate. And on occasion, some parts are on loan from a manufacturer and must be returned.
Do you mean the i5-6500 w/ a GTX 1060 like we built here? or with only the iGPU? The GPU is a big part of that equation. I believe we still have this build setup for testing, so I could check. Given we were already getting 105 fps on Epic, then I'd expect you could likely achieve your goal of 144 fps at High/1080p with the 1060 in place.
It's a generic RGBW LED lighting strip we picked up off of Amazon. It's 5m long, but you can cut at specific points to shorten as needed. They come with a controller and power supply, but we didn't use them. Instead, the strip is connected to the RGBW header available on the motherboard, which can then be controlled via software or the BIOS.
It's basically looped (somewhat loosely) down behind the front panel. I don't have a picture handly, but the easiest way to see how Barry did it is to watch the cable management time lapse around the @3:40 mark.
As long as it's a shielded extension cable like the one we are using here, I wouldn't expect anything notable in performance changes.
Most of the concerns I've seen mentioned with risers/extension cables relate to poorly constructed or mishandled cables (harshly bent, etc) causing damage that makes the GPU act flaky and/or crash. In the two systems we've used these Thermaltake risers, we haven't seen any such issues, but we were also pretty careful to avoid tight bends or anything which might compromise the integrity of the cable.
I agree.. dual GPUs can look quite nice in a smaller case.. though it can be fun to manage temps. (I used to run dual R9 280X's in a small Silverstone. Worked well as a heater for those cold winter weeks in Texas).
Anyway, technically it would probably fit.. but the 1060 doesn't support SLI (nor does this motherboard, I believe). If you had the extra $250 in your budget, I would probably suggest spending it towards getting a single 1070 instead. :)
We mostly use zip ties as a mixture of preference and practicality. Velcro can certainly get the job done and it's nice when cases have those nice built-in velcro straps to help with the main bulk of cables (see the Fractal Design Define Mini C build for a great example of how it can sometimes make things really easy). It's also handy if you're changing components relatively often.
The downsides of going with velcro are that it adds a bit of thickness and is a much more visible when you are done. The visibility being more of an issue or the front of the case, while the thickness becomes an issue (depending on the depth available) on the backside of many cases. Zip ties can do some much tighter cable pulls for tight spaces.
That said, use what you are comfortable with and works in your build! Hopefully Barry's cable management videos give you some good ideas for how you might route things, regardless of your tie preference. :)
This case includes brackets for mounting the GPU in the typical horizontal position or vertically as we did in the video. While it wasn't really planned, we've actually done two Thermaltake case builds with vertical mounts recently (this one and December's Feature build). Thermaltake sells a special PCI-Express Riser Extension Cable for taking advantage of this feature, but it won't do you any good on it's own if the case you select doesn't have a supporting bracket for vertical mounting.
So the values were definitely off. Turns out when I ran the original test, I used an out of date version of HWMonitor (1.29) that didn't support Kaby Lake correctly.
After retesting this morning using the updated version, it's actually peaking out around 54C and idle is actually reading at 28 rather than 35. I've updated the Details section to reflect the corrected data.
Sorry for the confusion!
The case has an optional vertical GPU mount you use with an extension cable.
Sorry about that -- was an error on the valid memory speeds for that motherboard. Should be fixed now.
I'd be a fan if does. :)
Not yet -- I'll recheck the temps we recorded on Monday.
The M.2 shield came with the motherboard. Definitely a nice touch.
It's definitely about the look, especially if you use it as intended and mount to a wall. Dust is certainly something to keep in mind when you chose an open design case. You'll probably want to keep a can of compressed air nearby. :)
Sadly, no -- it doesn't appear so.
Not quite the same (due to colors), but if you really want the shield you could go with an M.2 drive like the Plextor M8Pe we used in a recent build that is available with a heat sink shield. The ITX version of the Gaming Pro Carbon puts the M.2 SSD on the back of the motherboard though, so if you're just after the thermal improvements it could work.
Hmm.. well, to be fair, we did water-cool our CPU. That makes it kinda different, right?
Yes, it has a thermal pad under the heat shield intended to help keep the SSD temps cooler.
Interesting.. it may be right then. I'll still recheck the log files and probably re-run the stress test just to be safe when I'm back in the office on Monday before updating the result here again.