Main purpose of this PC is for gaming and scripting/programming use for work. I've built small budget PC's for family and friends prior to building this, but this is my first over $1,000 build.
Presently, I'm running one VM with this build, and I have no complaints with its performance. I do have the option to upgrade to a Skylake i7 and expand on my 16GB of RAM, if I want to run extra VMs in the future.
As for gaming, I'm running a 1440p 60Hz monitor setup on GPU intensive games such as ARK, Witcher 3, Gears of War 4. I've never seen my frame rates go below 60 on ULTRA settings. On CPU-intensive games such as Civ 5, Total War, DotA 2: they run seamlessly.
I have overclocked the CPU, GPU and RAM in this system and the userbenchmark links posted below are the before and after results of my stable OC:
BEFORE OC: http://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/1659238
In summation, I've probably focused more on the aesthetics rather than prioritizing performance over value. However I do like how this build looks and have no complaints about its performance in regards to gaming and work-related things.
More than sufficient for gaming. Was able to boot and run Prime 95 for 15min at 4.7 GHz. I dialed it back to a stable 4.4 GHz on 1.272 vCore with LLC turned to high for longevity's sake.
Originally had an air cooler setup with the HYPER 212 EVO, GF got me the H100i for the holidays. The difference between having an air cooled system vs water cooled is outstanding. On the HYPER 212 EVO, I hit an OC ceiling of 4.3 GHz with temps running at ~30C on idle and close to 70C on load. Anything past that, I considered dangerous and would've detrimentally affected CPU's life in the future. With H100i installed, I was able to get a stable 4.4 GHz with temps running at ~25C on idle and close to ~45C on load. For budget builds and/or users who aren't keen on OC their systems I would go with the Hyper 212 EVO. But if you wanna squeeze performance out of your system, I would definitely recommend buying a H100i V2.
Great 'midrange' board for its price. Had no problems with overclocking my CPU, GPU and RAM. UEFI UI is pretty self explanatory for seasoned builders. This board does have slots for M.2 SSDs, which I might upgrade to in the future.
I have XMP setting turned on. I bought the red version of this RAM and It was the most affordable 2x8GB RAM I found in the marketplace at the time of this build. The red encasement is made out of plastic and it feels flimsy when you hold it. I am looking at the newer G.SKILL RBG TRIDENTs, if I wanna upgrade in the future.
A far departure from waiting 1-3 min for one of my premade laptops that use HDD to load from a cold boot. It takes less than ~5 seconds to boot my system using this drive. I have my OS, work-related applications, and frequently played games installed in this drive.
Standard HDD. I mainly use this storage for games I occasionally play, pictures, music, videos, and other documents. Really don't have preference between WD and Seagate; It just so happens that Seagate was few cents cheaper than WD at the time of this build.
I was able to push this factory overclocked card to a stable 1935 MHz. This GPU plays very well on 1440p at 60 fps on ultra settings from Witcher 3, ARK Survival, and etc. Until AMD comes out with Vega and its benchmark results.: I highly recommend this card if you're looking to build a gaming system for around $1000-$1500.
One of the first "fully-modular" cases I saw in the market. I jumped the bandwagon and decided to buy this case. This case is possibly one of the easiest, if not the easiest, case I've ever built in. There's a lot of room for cable management, and all the drive cages are easily removable if more clearance is needed for your GPU. I've removed the 5.25" bay and opted for a third intake fan in the front. One of my favorite things about this case is the removable top radiator mount. It makes installing radiators from AIO water coolers easier, as it allows you to remove the mount and install it separately with the radiator before screwing it back in. I'm still waiting on whether Cooler Master will expand the amount of compatible accessories you can install in this case, taking advantage of its "fully-modular" moniker.
Originally had Cooler Master 650W 80+ Bronze, but decided to opt for a PSU with better efficiency and watt ceiling for overclocking. The GQ series includes an eco-mode switch which allows the PSU to turn off its fans in light loads.
I have these two 120mm fans on a push setup to cool my top radiator.
One is setup as an exhaust on the back, and the other two is used as intake fans in front to supplement the other SP140 intake fan
Originally bought this as a front intake fan infront of my extra drive cage. I've since removed the drive cage, and in hidnsight, I would've just bought a High Air Flow fan.