Description

This is less of a "hey, check out this cool build" submission, and more of a "this is my first build, it has already killed one SSD and is now blue screening on the second one, SOS!!!" plea for help, basically.

On the first try, I had a Crucial MX500 1TB SATA M.2 SSD in the main slot running the OS. Enter Assassin's Creed: Origins. Played on a Samsung 4K TV, all ultra settings, native 4K. Many hours of gameplay went by mostly normally, with an occasional hard graphical stutter lasting about half a second. Eventually one such stutter led to a hard crash, with a "Select proper boot device" error on restart. SSD did not appear in BIOS. Placed in extra slot in my laptop, nothing, appears completely dead. Both at idle & while running AC:O, I didn't notice any dangerously high temperatures, & system did not throw up any critical warnings.

While running it without the case lid on, I had noticed a solid yellow LED on the SSD, but didn't think this meant anything other than it's working. A friend suggested it may have been a simple bad SSD. So I thought I'd try again with a better one.

Now I've retried with the P1 NVME SSD, & also re-checked all cable seating. I changed the cooler connections after re-reading the H60 & mobo manuals & realizing I might have mixed up CPU_FAN and PUMP_FAN. This SSD doesn't show any solid LED, either. A ~3 hour session of AC:O went by without incident - in fact, the hard stutter was no longer occurring at all, and it was running quite smoothly, even better than the first attempt.

Later, was now using it with the lid screwed on & placed in my home theatre rack (so, less airflow, temps a bit higher but do not appear to be critical). 30 more minutes of AC:O, no issues in-game. Then I quit to desktop -- upon which I received a frozen BSoD with error "CRITICAL_PROCESS_DIED". Rebooted into a very sluggish & broken Win10 with blank windows popping up. Scared to death of hardware failure (again), I did another hard reset. Luckily this time, Win10 bootup caught that something is broken & did an automatic system restore to what looks like fresh post-installation (with app install files still intact, but not listed in Apps and Features). Reinstalled all drivers, apps, etc. To my surprise, Win10 appears to be working fine. CrystalDiskInfo does not show any drive errors.

Totally lost here; while just Win10 appears to run fine, I'm scared to run AC:O again without seeking expert advice & diagnosis first. Any and all comments/advice are greatly appreciated, and happy to attempt clarifying any specifics about the setup. Reminder: clueless newbie here -- may be fundamental critical error(s) in build method/part choice/power/cooling.

Misc notes:

PCPP throws up a warning that the GPU is too long, but it fits fine.

PCPP estimated power draw is 356W, so I had thought the 500W PSU would be sufficient.

The H60 cooler is taking cool air inside via the front vent, and the PSU is upside down to be used as an exhaust, the way I've seen it in many builds with this case.

Everything is running stock, no OC settings touched, no BIOS changes (like I said, clueless newbie).

While running the game I was using MSI Dragon Center's Hardware Monitor to check CPU temps, and CrystalDiskInfo to check SSD health & temps.

I looked at lots of other builds with the same case & parts, thinking this would all work fine (heh).

Temps from the AC:O benchmark tool: GPU around 65-70 avg, CPU & SSD around 60.

At idle, GPU is 51, CPU 40, while SSD is at 55-58 (perhaps a bit high for just being idle in Win10?)

Comments

  • 4 months ago
  • 4 points

Just a thought, but considering your build size and specs, I noticed that your m.2 SSDs don't have heat sinks. I would consider getting an aftermarket heatsink for your m.2 boot drive. I know they can get pretty toasty in those mini ITX cases so my first instinct is to work on thermals. I know cable management in mini ITX cases is a massive chore, but it looks like your cables may be restricting some essential airflow, which could be a factor if heat is what is killing your SSDs.

  • 4 months ago
  • 1 point

Read up on the error critical_process_died, seems that you may need bios/driver updates. Other people had the same BSOD when their drivers were corrupted. I also second Samsy, maybe those M.2s should have heatsinks on them. My M.2s operate around 45 during normal use. Maybe the higher capacity on yours are the cause?

  • 4 months ago
  • 1 point

Thanks both of you! All bios/drivers are the latest ones. I think I'll see if I can better optimize cabling, and will definitely grab a m.2 heat sink for the main boot/OS drive, it's showing pretty high temps in HWiNFO and I think this may be the culprit.

  • 4 months ago
  • 4 points

10/10 name

  • 4 months ago
  • 2 points

Great name, and to be fair this probably will be junk in 2020... You know, Moore's Law?

Just kidding, this should hold up for a long time. Nice work! As a fellow SG13 owner, I give this one a +1

  • 4 months ago
  • 2 points

Bios update, and keep an eye on thermals. Most MOSFETs are rated above 100c. I had some m.2 incompatibilities untill I updated bios. Good luck

  • 4 months ago
  • 1 point

What do you think is dead? Do you have an SSD as well as your M.2?

Your mobo states the following: The motherboard M.2 slot #1 shares bandwidth with a SATA 6.0 Gb/s port. When the M.2 slot is populated, one SATA 6.0 Gb/s port is disabled'

So you may need to confirm that the m2 and Sata port are not plugged into the same port and plug your second drive into sata port 3 or 4.

See if this fixes your issue

  • 4 months ago
  • 1 point

Hey, thanks for the comment. I'm using both M.2 slots (1st is the main OS drive, 2nd underneath other side of the mobo is just extra storage). I'm not using any of the 4 SATA ports on the mobo for anything (no 2.5" drives) so don't think I can do this unless I've misunderstood something...

  • 4 months ago
  • 1 point

Maybe your VRMs can't handle the heat after some time (hours). Had a similar problem with my board.

Try HardwareMonitor (it's a free tool) to check on all temps -> VRMs / SSD / chipset to find out if there is a hotspot that might cause the shutdowns.

  • 4 months ago
  • 1 point

Thanks, I used HardwareMonitor and then HWiNFO. The mobo sensor temps don't go above ~60 at full load. HWiNFO shows three temperature sensors for the boot/main SSD: "Drive Temperature", "Drive Temperature 2" and "Drive Temperature 5". The first two get to about ~65 during gameplay, and the third (5) gets really high, like 85-87. I'm thinking this is the main problem now.

  • 4 months ago
  • 2 points

85-87 might be the issue here. Got my heatsink vom EKWB and it's doing it's job to cool down the drive. Installation is easy and it's not that expensive.

Good luck!

  • 4 months ago
  • 1 point

Try HWINFO as this have more readouts. Also will show if your being throttled. Nice build btw. Hows the temps with the cpu/cooler combo? Im thinking of upgrading from my 8350k/evo 212 to this combo. Thanks n Good Luck

  • 4 months ago
  • 1 point

Also, your issue is no doubt your 500w psu. Rtx 2080 cards reccomend 650w min. Im running 750w gold with simular specs no issues. One big issue is the 12V rail amperage. That 500w psu wouldnt have the proper 12v rail amperage. You risk frying your entire system with overvoltage from that cheap 500w. Never cheap out on your power supply.

  • 4 months ago
  • 1 point

Hey, thanks for the note. The H60 & 9600K seem to be working well together, not really going above ~60 during load. HWiNFO is showing pretty high temps for the main drive, so I'm going to try a heatsink & see what I can do to improve airflow. I'm not sure if it's the PSU. I was able to play for hours with the case lid off, without any apparent issues. It seems to be when I put the case lid on, and put it in my TV stand rack, that it definitely is getting hotter & crashing. I will look into a higher wattage PSU though if a heatsink doesn't fix things.

  • 4 months ago
  • 1 point

Nice build specs!! I have a Samsung - 970 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive without a heat sink and it never goes above 60, even when gaming. I'd say your issue is airflow.

Also, I just bought a RTX 2080 and the suggested minimum PSU is 650 for the RTX 2080. You might want to invest in a good one which will also cover you for future demand. I bought myself a SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Gold 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply which I got for only $102.

Good luck getting the issue resolved.

  • 3 months ago
  • 1 point

How did you get that gpu to fit??