They are the optional mounts offered by Radikult(check his eBay store). Everyone going with distro plates these days but I liked the idea of having the res standoff so I could mount the side fans. Looks better imo, also allows me to run 3x360 rads.
No case mods at all.
No the 240 is not actually secured to the case. The hard line fittings keep it in place also needed a little wiggle room for assembly.
The diameter of the tube doesn't matter, the tubes are threaded G1/4. All fittings are thread G1/4 it's a universal standard. You cannot make a mistake ordering wrong sizes because you aren't using fittings that go over the outside of the tube, you are screwing into the tube. 5 or 6mm G1/4 length makes no difference. Those 2 fittings you linked are the best one's to get, it just depends on the look you want. I prefer the first one with sharp 90's and 2 different rotary thicknesses. They will give you more options when it comes to getting the run lengths perfect. Some times you need just a little bit more or less to get a run looking perfect.
No noway you could run anything past the GPU.
Yes buy dual rotary 90 for sure, way easier if you are going to use link tubes. For filling and bleeding air I recommend installing a temp res somewhere near the pump that you can remove after you have all the air out. I just bought the EK-XTOP separate I already had a D5 for it. All D5's are pretty much the same, get one with a SATA connector if you have a choice.
I used tons of the 2nd one male-male 5mm extenders to turn regular M-F 90's into M-M 90's. The only thing with going this way is that the side you use the 5mm extender on isn't going to be rotary, that means you will need the opposite side of that run to be rotary. If you buy the double rotary 90's I linked to it gives you a lot more options and makes it so easy to build with link tube.
In this build many of the 90's are single rotary with a 5mm m-m spacer. This allows for link tube on each side. If you are buying fittings from scratch to make a build using link tube then order these. They make it super easy to connect link tube in tight spaces. If you build this setup please note water temps are higher that a normal setup in a case that has more room and airflow. Depending on the hardware and OC you intend run. If not overclocking this setup would make a great near silent liquid cooled build in the A1. To answer your question from other msg, I do not have any plans or loop run drawings, this layout was built on the fly, trial and error. It's pretty challenging, to make it work you have to assemble in a particular order. Good luck.
Another stellar 011 build! Oh and no lousy bends for the win! Moar fittings!
I wasn't entirely satisfied with the A1 for a few reasons, cooling was acceptable but not great. I'm almost finished moving that setup into the Corsair Crystal 280x. I have managed to squeeze in 3 240's, it's looking really good as far as aesthetics and cooling performance. Just hunting down lower than expected flow rate and replacing the adr LEDs on the monoblock so I can take some b-roll.
Your OCD is on point SilverMike! The attention to detail is first class! When I look at custom systems I usually build a mental list of...would change that would have done this different etc. My OCD says perfection.
Mine does 5.2ghz no avx offset at 1.39v, you'd be super lucky to get 5.4 out of an 8086k IMO.
The bend force is strong with this one!
I just zip tied some of slack to clean it up. Using the supplied power supply no aftermarket cables.
Thanks for the kind words, and yes no way you could do something similar with a full size card.
Nice build! +1 for no lousy bends!
Great 280X build, really like your 2 color theme.
Question how did you get your corsair LL120's front fans to 2 show different static colors inner hub and outer ring? My understanding from searching is that this isn't possible in the iCue software. It's been driving me crazy as I want to do the same.
Oh I see well you definitely covered all the bases then. I don't have personal experience with the 9900k but reviews seemed to show she's a really hot chip, those extra cores come at a cost! If only getting really hot under prime95 you should be perfectly fine for daily normal use and gaming. Cheers!
Amazing work here Onyx! I cannot believe you fit the pump/res combo AND a full size GPU in there. That custom fan bracket is simply brilliant!
Now let's talk about cooling performance, I know the 9900k is a super hot chip but I don't think it should be getting to 97c in this setup, Did you happen to spin the cpu on a flat surface to see if the IHS is truly flat? A couple of vidoes Jayztwocents made showed that the new soldered CPUS IHS's needed to be lapped as they were not flat and it caused imperfect contact with the CPU block. If not that then I think you may have a less that perfect thermal paste application. Would be interesting to see how the 8700K performs also as I have the same cooling capacity and my 8700k CPU oc'd to 4.9 is staying under 85c in prime95. I hope you can sort it out as this is an awesome A1 build. +1 for Feature
I don't think you can get away with 6mm longer. It's very close.
Lol... That's funny! Thanks
No problem, let me know how it goes. Be sure to flip a link when completed. On a side note, my cooling is amazing with the 2x 360's but I'm thinking about adding a 3rd 360 to the middle just because you can...I would definitely if I was running sli GPU's. The mid spot is tight and not every rad will fit...the XSPC TX360 screaming to go in there
Another guy asked the same... without having done it I can't say for sure but I think it will fit... it's going to be super tight if it does. If you haven't bought both cards yet try 1 in the bottom slot first and see....or buy thin fans for the bottom rad and it'll work for sure. Only down side to that is no thin RGB fans on market I know of. Last thought if doesn't fit with XSPC 360 rad you could get the XSPC tx360 ultra slim rad...that will work for sure.
FYI, I got all 9 fans into the commander pro following this thread and diagram.
Amazing...looks great! I bet you learned a lot in the process.
Curious...why the mid fans not lighting up?
I don't think the hard tube meant for bending is thick enough to tap. The acrylic link tubes are much thicker than PTG.
Oh no concern at all, threaded connection is a 100x more secure than a compression fitting. You can easily pull hard tube out of a compression fitting! Soft tube compression's hold really tight but hard tube is another story. Try it yourself!
I look forward to seeing pics, let me know when you post completed build.
The gfx card you are using will make it very challenging. I used all the space I saved by going with the super short 1080ti mini to get my pump in there. Only thing I can say is you just have to do trial and error.
Yeah unfortunately you can't use the motherboard header as it's for addressable RGB. I'm using the controller that came Barrow GPU block. It's an inline button style, cheap and available as a stand alone purchase.
It's the founders edition EK block. Note EK updated the design to work with SC2 which has a fan header in a non-standard location(although there is no mention of this on their site or in the product compatibility list). If you get some other founders edition you may have to mod the block to clear that one part. If you search you'll find pics and info on redit. Anyways if you get this one it works out of the box no mods.
EK-FC GeForce GTX FE RGB – Nickel SKU:46995780
I'm not having that issue. Do you have the pump speed adjustment dial on the back? Try lowering the speed to 4 instead of 5. If that's not it check to make sure you have the pump O-ring seated properly and you haven't over tightened. In your video it "sounds" like it's hitting the acrylic.
Also wouldn't hurt to flip a quick e-mail with that video to Mario at Radikult customs and see if he's run into that problem before.
Good luck...flip me a msg when completed can't wait to see pics.
No the setup is intake from bottom exhaust back and sides. The GPU is in the loop so it's temperature is controlled by the water temp.
No room for a traditional res. On the Q block in front, the small piece of tube on top is where the air bubbles can collect. it's fitted with a bitspower air exhaust fitting.
Water temp will reach just over 40c while gaming. CPU between anywhere between 60-70c while gaming. GPU usually stays below 60c. I did some prime95 stability testing for the OC and CPU peaked at 85c.
This setup isn't about getting the lowest temps possible, I was more interested in water cooling the A1 to see if I could and having a quite ITX that could compete with it's big brother in gaming. Temps definitely higher than my other build in the PC-011. The slim rads are amazing to fit in tight spaces but it comes at a cooling capacity cost.
This isn't my main show piece system, it's a second PC I use at the cottage the fans are reused from an build to save a bit of $$.
I'm using the original power supply that comes with the A1.
Amazing build! The all in one case from Singularity Computers is compelling. How did you find building in it?
Yes it should fit fine
No concern at all with res choking the fans, the temps are fantastic with 2x360 rads. I have my 8086k CPU at 5.2ghz 1.39v with -1 AVX offset. Temps cannot get above 85c in the heaviest prime 95 loads. Water temp does not exceed 35c this time of year. Note I'm not using a res in the middle section.
Aewsome, remember to msg me when you post it so I can have a look.
The bottom rad is not passive there are 2 x 120 mm fans below it in the case's base. No issue with gpu getting warm as it's in the loop. All in all for how small the case is the cool in works better than I expected. Both the 120 Rad fan and the rear case fan are exhausting the warm air pushed in through the 240. The water temp is approximately 8-10c warmer than my PC 011 dynamic build that has 2 360 rads.
I haven't tried installing a rad there myself but it's definitely possible. There are some limitations and possible mods to do depending on the rad you use. Have a read on through this thread...there are a bunch of posts about which rads work. https://www.overclock.net/forum/161-computer-cases/272699-official-lian-li-owner-s-showcase-thread-472.html#/topics/272699?page=472
You can definitely get the GPU vertical with fans but I'm not sure if you can fit fans and a rad. See here vertical with fans https://pcpartpicker.com/b/C6P323
May work if you go wit XSPC's new ultra slim 20mm TX360 rad and some slim fans.
Try filtering pcpartpicker by Lian li cases PC-011 DX & PC-011 DW and see if anyone has done it.
Correct fans are not screwed into the 240 rad. There was no way to even fit ultra thin fans into the clear plastic base with the rad in there. I would say no meaningful difference in cooling, the temp are great on both counts and gpu when gaming. You could Dremel out the hexagon floor if you really want to attach fans to the rad but I'd say try it without first.
Good luck, let me know how you make out ... post pics.
Thanks! Did you see the OLED water temp sensor?
Water temp idle is around 25c this time of year(I'm in Canada). Gaming 32-34c.
Running Prime 95 the CPU @5.2GHZ 1.39v stays under 80c.
GPU temps are better (mild overclock) 57c while gaming.
I used XSPC TX120 and TX240 in my ITX build. Amazing little rads.
Can really see them to well but that's the point right? https://pcpartpicker.com/b/nQNQzy