Oops! Yeah, I originally had the LPX in this build.
If you have a window kit you can fit dominator platinums with room to spare, otherwise it'll make the stock side panel bulge a little. This is how much the heatspreader extends past the side panel -- I took the window off but left the bezel on.
It'll definitely prevent one of the corners from closing if you use the stock side panel, but can work in a pinch
With my 2700X/B350, XFR2 boosted 2 of my cores to 4.35 GHz and the rest between 4.05-4.2 GHz, albeit the voltages were a little high for me sometimes.
You should be fine relying on XFR with the newer generations but make sure you get fast RAM to go with it.
I think 1.35v would probably be okay in games, temperature-wise, but stress tests and benchmarking might get you into an uncomfortable range.
3.8 vs 3.9 GHz isn't that much of a decrease so if you have to drop it, don't worry about general performance too much.
Yep! I'm running at a constant 4.05 GHz (I could go higher) and in the background using it for hosting Plex / Usenet downloading + extracting.
The Cryorig C7 will fit with the stock panel and window kit, the stock 2700x heatsink is just wayyyyyyy too tall for the A4-SFX unless you're okay with exposing the fan. I got some compliments with the stock heatsink because it was unique but I didn't want to see what the dust buildup would be like (there's no filters as is but still) so I changed to the Cryorig C7.
If you use the window kit and remove the acrylic window then you have basically no height limit on your coolers. But I would go with a slightly larger case if you don't fit within stock dimensions
I run a fixed overclock (changed P-state 0), so it's always at most 4.05 GHz 1.25v. Stock overclocking increases the heat a crazy amount because XFR2 boosts to 1.4-1.5v
RAM running at 3000 MHz, haven't fiddled with my timings much but I think it's at CL16 (Intel can handle lower timings just fine).
Are you able to hit 4 GHz with no RAM OC? And do you have a Zen+ (2700/2700X) or a Zen (1700/1700X/1800X) CPU?
Updat(ing/ed) my post with figures :) Your Copper C7 should work great! Jealous lol. My 8700K has a copper IHS and a full copper heatsink (LP53), works pretty well
In my best tests (on a possibly advantageous modified C7 configuration) I've seen 30 C consistently at 4.05GHz, and at worst (few mins after stress testing) 38C.
Check out the post description when you get the chance if you want to see my full test results.
The stock heatsink of the 2700X is amazing and boosts to 4.35GHz easily for me. If you can fit it I recommend it
Both CPUs are great and you can get either to run cool on this new 12mm process :)
Will do when I get home to test.
I think with the additional fans you'll be fine, with my aluminum C7 + A9x14 I can't get a lot of airflow over the VRM or chipset heatsinks.
I'm doing some cooler comparisons currently, but it's not entirely accurate because I broke my original C7 fan :( With a NF-A9x14 (1.32W retail variant) it doesn't cool the chipset or VRMs well enough to sustain XFR2's typical voltages (1.3-1.5v). I recommend 3.9-4 GHz at most with a low profile cooler, the voltages on Zen+ are around 1-1.15v at that frequency.
I'll update the description when I have some comparisons. The stock cooler is definitely the best, but it does stick out of the case.
I think the official specification says 295mm, but my EVGA FTW3 1080 Ti is 300mm. So anything dual-slot up to the size of a FTW PCB (an inch or two taller than the reference) should be fine.
Are you talking about the Noctua NH-L9a? If so it'll probably be fine, but I would disable XFR2. The cooler is meant for 65W CPUs and XFR2 will easily boost to double that.
It matters on larger boards (mATX/ATX/eATX) but on ITX there's little to no benefit in buying a chipset with more PCIe lanes if you only have 1 slot.
In my case, the B350/X370 variants of this board have identical VRMs, IO, and OC capability, and only differ on the wireless card.
I'm not sure about X470's capabilities but I'll do some additional research when they come out. This B350 board has been enough to run my 2700X with XF2 pushing to 4.35 GHz frequently but if you can wait to see B450/X470's offerings, I would :)
I can advocate for both CPUs, but it's entirely dependent on your workload.
With the 8700K I was able to get closer to matching 240Hz on my display in combination with the 1080 Ti, but streaming and gaming had some frame dips occasionally on newer titles.
The 2700X is a much smoother experience even while streaming and gaming. Games are starting to properly saturate all cores and that really shows when streaming with x264.
If I was purely gaming the 8700K would be a winner. But, as all good things must come to an end, I also use this desktop for work. My 2700X speeds up my workflow in all the applications that I use.
Grats on the build! Glad you got the GPU to fit :)
https://i.imgur.com/4kIgmJw.png - HWinfo after 100 hours.
The averages column are my idle temps (because I wasn't under load for 100 hrs) but maximum temperatures are there too. GPU never passed 71 C with the window kit (briefly, average is lower)
This is also with the window kit installed. You'll get lower temps with the stock panel.
Ah, I neglected to list GPU temps, I'll format it a bit as well, been busy with work!
Install EVGA Precision XOC, set a custom fan curve (any is fine. Aggressive/Quiet/Default are better than the firmware-set profile) and you'll be fine. My GPU stays significantly (10C+) cooler than the CPU, and under real usage (gaming and encoding / streaming on CPU) gives me CPU temps of ~75C and GPU temps of 55-65C.
Stock side panels perform well, so you should be fine. The only issue the case has is exhausting hot air, which is offset when you ramp the fans up. I haven't had any stability issues and I run my CPU at 4.9 GHz across all cores currently. Will update table with new figures soon :)
Physically the card will fit but it's not a supported size. And no, not a difficult process but it did require some shimmying to get it into place, just put it in the riser first (the height of the card makes it impossible/very hard so do it out of the case) and then align it with the PCI slot. Screw riser and card into place.
I used a Rockit 88 from RockItCool but I hear good things about Der8auer's Delid Die Mate 2.
Difficulty is probably a 2 at most, in my opinion it's a 1 after doing it a few times.
Heatsinks will work like normal but be careful if you need to remove the CPU as the IHS won't be attached unless you relid.
Thankfully the IHS never moves under pressure once you secure it in the socket so there's nothing to worry about.
I used CLU as that's what I had laying around but I hear great things about Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut. I use Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut as thermal paste (not a liquid metal), I think they're a great company.
Yeah, conventional cases are cheaper. But I'm a huge fan of custom cases now that I've done so many normal builds :) (building is a hobby for me, if I was going to just build a PC and be done that would've been long ago)
It could've been a little cheaper but I wanted the window kit included.
Also thanks for commenting!
My bad! I was referencing his comment on switching from his AIO. I prefer tower air coolers if I'm not watercooling.
I can't edit my old comment so for clarification, I didn't mean "I only recommend non-tower air coolers [...]", what I was trying to say was "I can only recommend non-tower air coolers if [...]"
The more surface area the better (typically) :)
Delidding will drop you around 10-15 C easily, and you can overclock higher on that AIO with the additional headroom. So consider it at one point :) I used a specialized tool to separate the IHS, basically 0 risk of breaking or damaging the CPU.
I only recommend non-tower air coolers if you're delidded, the 8700K is too hot otherwise
I haven't updated in a couple months but it's running 2933 on with all slots populated. I recall having to play around with my voltages and a few other memory-specific settings to get it to POST, but maybe it's better on the latest BIOS.
I've got my entire steam library (2.92 TiB) stored on it.
I get sequential read speeds of 215 MB/s and sequential write speeds of 200 MB/s so games with small, large files load decently but it's still a HDD - games with many files will take some time. I still really recommend it for the size alone though.
It doesn't take long to load my games from the HDD so I can't complain about anything
Yeah, still need to add an LED kit. Soon though!
EthOS is a good choice. Personally I just use Windows and run it headless, takes some configuring (installing correct drivers/adjusting pagefile size/overclocking cards).
I've got a rig sitting in the room next to me with the same CPU/motherboard/RAM combo running well.
With RX 470s, the lowest he should get per card is 24.5 Mh/s. I'd say 145-150 Mh/s total until it's overclocked.
Yeah, as long as you have risers.
For ethereum, just go for whatever is cheapest; focus your budget on GPUs.
I use less now - that picture was after applying, installing the heatsink, and then removing it - but thanks :)
The case has a lot of fan spots, but it does feel compact when navigating inside the case.
Sorry for the delay, yes it does. I just wanted one that wasn't as high - hoping to put some more 40mm noctua fans in.
The stock cooler worked fine, but the mounting method wasn't what I'm used to.
Yeah, just mount it in the 2.5" area in a PC case. It would be a good placeholder to lower costs, though a noticeable difference between a decent 3.5" HDD and a SSD. Just a way to lower the initial investment, but feel free to reinstall windows if you want to reclaim space.
Definitely good temperatures for a laptop.
A decent desktop is night and day in comparison though. You can get a good desktop for entry gaming at around $350-550, maybe less if you look for deals. She can play multiple games at the same time but heat output goes up with more load. If you're looking to save money you can use your laptop HDD for a little while longer.
Definitely! However, give me a budget and I'll see what I can do for you. This build was cheaper because I gave her the CPU, but there's places to cut corners. I can put together a list for you.
I can test some games if you'd like, just keep in mind that I was able to give her the CPU: there'll be an added cost on that front. Though you can definitely go cheaper on some of the parts, we went for a design-oriented focus and spent a bit more on the case and accessories. What's your current specs?
The steam sale is on, try looking for some good local co-op games? Then you'll reach a point where the co-op games require 2 computers to play together, and that's when she's hooked.
Wouldn't be very welcoming to the master race at all lol. Would've made the title better, though.
I'll blame it on lack of sleep. Thanks lol :)
I still have another i5+h97 (that I'm letting a friend borrow), but I try to avoid spending too much money. This turned out to be an experiment that went fairly well - will be my main computer for a good amount of time.
Thanks for the advice on Skylake, I'm fine with what I have for now but might look at the next generation of hardware for an upgrade later this year.
Solid build, good pictures too! (despite the lack of GPU placement and statistics)
What thermal paste did you use?
Also, overkill cooling for pentium that might not OC, but at least you never need to worry about temperatures.
Earned a +1 from me (I love small builds. Nice use of an M.2 drive)
Glad to see it in working order. High price to performance ratio here.
It's a really clean-looking case. I was the previous owner of it (specifically from this build) and enjoyed it dearly, though a little more cable management room wouldn't hurt. Downside is that you can't route the CPU power through the top, like some other cases.
Windows 10 64-bit, he already had a license which saved some costs.
Listed as a custom part, sorry: 8 GB of Samsung RAM.
Probably OEM, but it's 2x4 GB and works very well. No heatspreaders.
Solid choices, +1.
He's just stating that if this PC were used for heavier gaming, a new one would be required to keep up. EVGA is nice but their lower end models have a few questionable choices internally.
I'll take some screenshots later when I'm at his house, if you wish. Fallout 4 runs very nicely on medium settings. Minus anti-aliasing and a very slight core boost through afterburner. Easily over 100 FPS if the resolution was lowered.
An iPhone 5c that I'm going to use for iOS development very soon.
Normally I prefer money but we both had a use for the trade - not the best condition for the phone, but entirely useable.
He has a new phone now, and I figure why not let the processor get some use.
P.S. your build is still decent :) Better in certain respects.