Way cleaner cable management than I was doing at that age. Props.
That's fair; I personally use their competitor Kryptex, and there's another competitor set to be released soon that pays Bitcoin Cash instead of BTC.
Bitcoin hasn't been mineable on GPUs or CPUs since early 2013. At this point if you want to break into the Bitcoin mining space you need to drop at least 2k on a specialized piece of hardware called an "ASIC," which also takes about 1200W-1500W at the wall and is noisy as hell (think a reference card then multiply that by 3 or 4 and you're close to what a Bitcoin miner sounds like). In short, home miners basically aren't a thing anymore.
However, you could mine an altcoin such as Ethereum or Monero that is still profitable on a CPU or GPU, or you could use software like NiceHash that sells your hashing power for whatever algorithm is most profitable and then pays you in Bitcoin.
Hey, if you ever still check this account, I'd like to enquire as to how you managed to mount the slim fan to the radiator. I have the same AIO (H75) and I'm planning a similar build, but the long screws that come with the AIO are too long to use with a slim fan without piercing the radiator itself, which is no good. How did you manage it?
You & me both. Nothing we can do but voice our opinion.
Ok good. Good to know.
Thanks for the answer. I'm still confused on the front cover issue because I can't wording, though, so I'll phrase it differently:
In the Nano S there is the option to mount the front fans outside of the "case" and inside the front cover thing that you snap on to make it look like it has a solid front. If you were putting your fans inside the front cover, it would go fans | front panel (not the very front panel of the case, the thing inside of that which you screw the fans into) | radiator, whereas if you weren't it would go front panel | fans | radiator. Which is it?
That looks like an insanely tight fit between the GPU and the CPU rad. Is there any physical contact or scraping going on or is there enough clearance and it just looks like that?
(Also, I have to ask, but are you putting the rad fans inside the front cover, using slim fans, or doing something else that would alter the profile of the radiator?)
How the fresh hell do you get to all of those?
Probably something similar happened as with Microcenter and PCPP couldn't reach an agreement with nV to fetch the pricing metadata from the product page and so nV isn't a supported retailer. That'd be my guess.
Thanks so much man. Really helps.
Because I've heard that the GPU just spins its fans at a constant speed I'll just buy one that's already quiet like an F12 and use the voltage throttler.
Amazing! Just to clarify, does that mean they actually turn on and spin or did you just try plugging them in?
That would be A+. Could you just try plugging one of your normal 3- or 4-pin case fans into it and say if that works?
Hey, you seem to be pretty active in answering questions, so I have one of my own: I'm thinking of buying a FTW3 hybrid but I would want to replace the crappy EVGA fan with a Noctua, probably F12 PWM. I can't get a reliable answer out of EVGA as to whether fans can be replaced or what the pinout on the fan header is. Could you tell me?
Hey, if you're still watching this build, I'm planning on building in this case with this PSU - why did you choose to flip it fan up?
It's great! The only thing I'd have to warn against is that 165Hz + G-Sync really spoils you - even 144Hz without G-Sync will look choppy after you've used it for awhile. The small size + 1440p is really great because it brings out the 1440p quality better than a huge panel with lower pixel density.
The only thing I could actually knock it for is that the contrast is pretty low, even for a TN panel - so it looks somewhat washed out in games with a lot of deep colors. However, this isn't really a thing you notice when using it day-to-day, you just think "oh wow this is much better" if you use another monitor with better contrast. I don't think it's a dealbreaker, but I do think that if you're used to great contrast and deep colors then the transition might be rocky.
Yeah, noticed it a few secs after I took the pics but the entire thing has to be unscrewed and re-affixed in order to right it, so I'm waiting till I have some other excuse to get in there.
Mostly word-of-mouth advertising - if I overhear someone talking about buying a new gaming machine I'll insert myself into the conversation and give 'em the usual "PC is superior for X, Y & Z reasons, would you like me to build you one" spiel. A lot of my friends who know I'm good with PC will also contact me if they want something built or fixed.
Thanks. What stopped you?
I just downloaded & examined Gigabyte's SSD QVL for the motherboard, and the M8PeG (which PCPP claims is incompatible) is listed in all capacities. The SM961 1TB (pre-production version of 960 PRO / EVO) is also present.
The more I examine this the more I'm convinced that it's a PCPP fluke.
Just tried Newegg compare, they're completely identical in dimensions, interface, slot key and mounting pattern. What else could possibly be different between them?
The most similar one I can find (to the 960) is the Corsair MP500, which is NVMe, 2280, M-key, and has no backside componentry and is compatible.
No, just the SSD, mobo and CPU
If you have a locked Kaby Lake CPU, you're not going to be loading your PC 100% 24/7, and you don't need particularly good audio and / or you have a USB headset with its own DAC, it will work.
How's the Z270N treating you? I'm thinking of buying this board with a 7600K and I might attempt a light overclock (300MHz or so) but nothing more than that. Under a stress test, does it throttle your 7700K or keep it from hitting rated boost speeds at all? I hear a lot of complaining with the WIFI boards that the bare VRMs throttle K CPUs at stock, but accounts vary heavily. I'd be using the same or a similar cooler most likely.
Flip the PSU so that the fan points downwards - your GPU fans won't have to work as hard and your PSU temps will improve.
Perhaps you could look into setting up a new dependent clause (like the current "GPUs longer than X will fit but may block drive bays")? Such as "PSUs longer than 140mm will fit but may block drive bays"?
Might as well unscrew the GPU backplate, if you're using it in a closed case where it doesn't contribute to aesthetics then it's just preventing PCB ventilation and creating hotspots.
Otherwise, great build, love to see what people can do with small cases.
you've probably long forgotten about this build and this site, but on the odd chance you read this, thank you so much for that PSU comment - I had this exact question and you were a huge help
Newegg isn't a supported retailer??
I said that PP05 was a possibility and I'm fairly sure it's a moot-point anyways because it only works with Silverstone PSU. You make valid points, and I'll think about it but if the case can support an ATX PSU then I am damn sure gonna try to use that support.
no semi-passive, more expensive, less wattage, shorter warranty
GPU Boost 3 is great but it can't do its thing if you only give it like 50W of headroom to work with
Silverstone's GD09 is exactly 170mm, could you squeeze it?
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
built my first when I was 12, and it barely took 2 hours
literally is legos
Beg pardon, this is an extremely silly question but would you be willing to measure the height of your RAM sticks for me? I'm planning on building with this RAM in Define Nano S which has a maximum 35mm RAM clearance if you want to install water-cooling.
Hey, thinking of building something similar to this (DDR4-2400 RAM on a mobo that only supports 2133). Obviously, since you are posting this I presume that the build works, but how exactly does it work? Does it simply down-clock to support the mobo and show as 2133MHz in the system?
What kind of temps do you get with that cooler and CPU under typical gaming? Considering a build with 6500/T2 but not sure if it's worth the money.
How are your temps while gaming with the 6500 and T2? I'm thinking of doing a build almost exactly like this one (same case, same CPU, same cooler, almost same GPU in terms of TDP [RX 480]) and I don't trust the stock cooler but also don't know whether or not to trust the T2. What's the highest temp you've ever read and what's average while gaming, and would you recommend the cooler?
So far so good but my client is keeping most of his games on the SSD so the HDD really isn't under heavy stress. And also, I wouldn't start judging HDD reliability after only half a year.
No need for CPU cooler, and anyway, the one you picked will have very marginal differences over the stock cooler.
Overspending on mobo
320GB HDD? ******* really? You can get a 1TB for like $15 more. If you are going to use this PC for any kind of gaming, that is gonna fill up way too fast.
R9 380 is significantly better than 960 at the same price point
MicroATX mobo with full-ATX case, pointless. You could save up to $20 on the case and put that into an HDD that can actually hold some decent sized games.
Incredibly ****** PSU, never cheap out on PSU, can blow up your whole system. Related 1 Related 2
A working Windows copy can be found "grey market" for as low as $20, I have personal experience buying it like this and it works every time.
Absolutely no need for the fans, nearly all modern cases come packaged with good ones.
9/10 effort and guide, 8/10 logic, 6/10 build
Yes, absolutely. I haven't used anything like a kill-a-watt meter, but PCPP puts this build at just over 300W. Considering the CPU is 85W and you have to take maybe 60W for the motherboard and hard drives, about 150W of that belongs to the 970–which matches up with NVIDIA's official TDP for the card.
Now, I know that TDP=/=actual power consumption, but still, 300W estimate on a 450W PSU? I think that 150W is a fairly large margin of error to leave. You'll be fine.
Ah, you already owned the 740 in question? Smart choice to use it then. Although, you might achieve only slightly worse performance by simply using your Intel IGP...
Probably could've got a GTX 750 or R7 260X/360 for pennies more. :P
Go into BIOS, there should be an option called "XMP" (for an Intel CPU) or "AMP" (for an AMD CPU). Open the drop-down menu, there should be two options "off" and "Profile 1". Enable Profile 1 and you're working with XMP/AMP.
HOWEVER, keep in mind that XMP is only required for RAM with speeds 1866MHz and up. For your run-of-the-mill 1600/1333MHz, it's not needed.
True. I'm using the G100s right now (which is basically the wired version of the G602 with slightly different ergonomics) and I have to say, given that I got it for $20 I'm very satisfied. But considering my friend got his G602 for a full $70, I have to say that the price/performance/featureset ratio is not great. I mean, half the time he has his mouse within 10 feet of the wireless transceiver anyway :P
MS ToS=Microsoft Terms of Service. Like I said, Microsoft doesn't agree with the way that the keys are distributed, but your copy of Windows is still legit in the sense that it verifies itself as genuine.
I'll let you make the choice of whether it's worth it to pay $80 extra in order to avoid a minor terms-of-service violation.
Look at the data, my son. The APU in the PS4 is a gimped 7870, and one step down from the 7870 (roughly where the PS4 sits) is the 7850. Since the 260X is a direct rebadge of the 7850, yeah...:P Also the CPU in the PS4 is a 1.6GHz (IIRC) AMD that's actually quite a step down from the 3.5GHz 6300. Don't even get me started on the XB1, which is even less powerful with a gimped 7790 and a 1.85GHz AMD that's easily outstripped by a 260 non-X or 250X (roughly the GPU in this 7870K).
Considering that Sony sells the PS4 for ~$450 with Blu-Ray drive and includes a controller (while still making healthy profits on the whole thing) I don't see how they'd be able to include much more than a $100 graphics card (price point of the 260X).
What do you believe would be the PC CPU/GPU equivalent of a PS4, if not a 6300/260X?