Great build! Have you overclocked it? How come your CPU temp is 77C? If so, what sort of overclock did you get? On the GPU?
Or is it just really hot in your room? Or is this just normal for the 9900k?
Thanks for the reply! That's a shame. Do you think you'll be adding them in the future?
What's the wattage on your laptop brick? is it 12v or 19v?
Hi, I'm looking to build something very similar and I was wondering if 120W would be enough. Have you run Prime95 or any similar stress test to test the stability of this?
Unfortunately, I don't have the build anymore so I wouldn't be able to answer that question. :/
Thinner as in different brand or just put less thermal paste on?
Thanks for the reply btw.
I know this one is stupid, but would the motherboard be able to SLI the GPUs from slot 1 and 3? That would leave more room between them, leaving more room for the top one to breathe. 90% sure this doesn't work, but I'm too lazy to look up and consult the manuals on both mobos.
Also, it might not do much, but if you flip the PSU, it probably won't affect its performance but might shave off a few degrees from the GPU temp.
The top GPU must be getting something like 45-50C air... to get to a 83c. You could also reverse the airflow in the case - top fans are intakes, front ones are exhausts. Would recommend the h100 to be front mounted in that case.
This would balance things out as hot air will be pushed by air flow from the top GPU to the bottom one, BUT heat naturally tries to move upwards, so it might balance things out. Or just reduce air flow. I don't know. I should have done engineering, I'd have learned something useful...
God knows if any of that will actually help at all and if it does if it's going to be worth the hassle, but I feel sorry for the GPU throttling. GPU Boost 2.0 actually reduces actual clocks even when the cards are in the 70s, so 83 is maybe even reducing them below what is advertised as stock? Hope the extra fans help. If not, you will HAVE to water cool them or the demons of PCPartPicker will be haunting you day and night.
3.5 FPS if you wanna play with him. 9000+ if you try to sleep. Literally tips over and falls if you approach him.
As for the PC - 144hz on almost everything I play. Euro Truck Simulator 2 and Far Cry 4, are usually around 70-90 FPS.
I don't like the i3. It is unreasonably more expensive than the g3258 or the 860k. If the price/performance scaling was identical the i3, should cost around $70-80.
I realise this is most likely important to you, but if you were willing to go for an mATX instead of mITX build, you could free up $40 or so.
There is cheaper RAM out there. 8GB DDR3 1600mhz can be found for around $40 and it doesn't really affect performance.
Unless it is for professional use, I feel like a much lower priced SSD can do great. There are some for $45-50, which offer similar performance.
The 750Ti is a great pick for a mid range PC like this, but with $500 you might be able to get something juicier like a 380 maybe? Offers 4GB of frame buffer, which means a lot less stuttering and frame drops on higher settings/resolutions.
I put something quickly together as a suggestion of how I would go about making quick work of $500:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
It is 10% over budget. I would probably cut the cost from downgrading the CPU to a g3258 for now, with an upcoming upgrade. Or an 860k. However the 860k, makes a future upgrade a tad harder as you would also have to switch motherboards.
Around min 50:
They say it's just drivers? Kepler gate once more but from AMD this time around?
I thought the 390 is the 8GB 290. Did they change anything else?
The cooler is very good, but you could get a 4790k and a cooler for the price of 4690k+kraken. Cooling really doesn't affect performance that much, neither does the 4790k, as the 4690k is already all a game could want, but if you would want to be better off in the future, the 4790k provides more power than an OCed 4690k. You could get a quiet air cooler like Be Quiet or Noctua with the $35 leftover from the kraken's price.
The motherboard is not bad, but you can get similar quality for cheaper or better quality for the same price.
I would recommend a 256GB SSD and a faster hard drive, such as the Seagate Barracuda or Western Digital's Blue/Black, if reliability is very important to you.
The 980 Ti is a really good GPU. Perfect for max settings 1080p in EVERY game. Some will say it's overkill for 1080p. It's overkill for older games like Battlefield 4, but games like Far Cry 4, Witcher, GTA 5, drop below 60 on a 980 at 1080p at the right settings. The EVGA card is also a superb choice.
The PSU and case are excellent choices.
If you haven't bought a monitor yet and are looking at a 60HZ one, I would recommend 1440p. It will look better at almost max settings than 1080p at full max settings.
The 4690s is a bit of a gimmick. Really no point in it. If you buy a more powerful CPU it will just use less power to do the same thing, since it's the same architecture. TL;DR just get a normal i5 and it won't use more power or last less than the 4690s.
The motherboard is also heavily overpriced.
The RAM is slightly overpriced.
The HDD is incredibly overpriced. And also server grade, I think, which is not what you want/need for a normal PC.
The 960 with 4GB is rather pricy. The 290 offers much better performance at nearly the same price. If you would prefer to go team Nvidia though, you have the budget for a 970.
The power supply is good, but semi-modular power supplies are easier to work with, although it won't matter much, since that case doesn't have a windowed side panel.
This answers you second question. The answer to the first one is Yes.
So this would be, what it would look like:
It compares quite well, but there are a couple of things, I think it got better. For instance the CPU: the 4590 is a bit better than the 4460 and is cheaper, if you have a microcenter(that is where it's cheaper) nearby. If not, the 4460 is a good choice.
The motherboard is slightly overkill. What I mean by this, is that if you switch the motherboard for a $50 one, your performance will not change one bit.
I would also recommend this GPU over the Asus one:
At the current pricing it is $5 cheaper and 80Mhz faster. Evga also gives a 5 or 7 year-warranty on their GPUs. Evga are the best Nvidia manufacturers, in my opinion. Their PSUs are also good.
That is an excellent case choice. You could get by with something much inferior for a build like this, if you wanted to save some money. Again it would not impact performance.
I agree with horusrogue that the PSU is not the ideal choice for a high end overclocking system, but I also agree with tom's hardware that it is safe to use, stable and it is also compatible with Haswell C-states. So I would actually recommend this PSU, as you cannot OC your CPU and the PSU can handle a GPU OC. Especially a 970 one.
However, I would recommend this one, as it will make it easier for you to manage the cables and make your PC look better:
It's the same, just with optional cables.
Optical Disc Drives are pretty much obsolete nowadays. You download games online and WIndows installs faster from an OS. If you're a student you can get a discount on Windows btw.
That's an a78 board though.
For that motherboard it says that it supports the 860k after BIOS version 'FA'. 4.0 is the revision of the physical layout of the motherboard(PCB).
What I read is that FA is the first BIOS for a motherboard. So that means that all GA-F2A78M-D3H Revision 4.0 should support the 860k. However, I am not 100% sure about this, as it involved some yahoo answers.
Wow, that blows. Sorry to hear it. I think they(a88x motherboards) all do, but it's about the BIOS version that they come with. So maybe get them from somewhere, where they would have fresh stock?
This link is just for gigabyte. The other manufacturers probably have them as well. Try to contact the place, where you are buying them and ask for the BIOS revision.
By they way, Amazon have excellent customer support. Contact them about the issue, maybe they can come up with something. I am pretty certain they didn't state the BIOS version on their website. When it comes to PC hardware, they put up 0 info on there.
I have been debating the 980 Ti vs second 970. I do 1080p only and do not plan on a screen upgrade before 4k becomes what 1080p is now. By then the 980 ti would be what the 480 is now. Ancient. If I got a 980 Ti, I would get the cheapest one, since the VRMs, etc.(whole board) is the same and finally pull the trigger on a custom loop. Although the ACX.20 is quite good though. I think I'll wait another couple of months. Or years, if I don't get a job soon. xD
I have seen heatsinks for GPUs smaller than the heatsink on those VRMs. That's just insane.
The Zotac was ****. Mini-ITX is about the only place I'd recommend it. But their OC software and the refusal of the card to cooperate with MSI afterburner, the 105% power target limit, compared to the standard 110% power target for 970s(Which is the main limiting factor of overclocks on the 970.) It can unlock 110%, but only in the Zotac software and again a hassle to do. Was not able to work the saved profiles in a way that would allow me to save my OC.
It also became rather noisy when overclocked. Hot as well. 80C regular on stock speeds as well, which is just unheard of on a 970. I got the Zotac for £250 and the EVGA for £270 and for me it is worth every penny. Quieter, better OC, cooler, etc, etc. Evga's precision is also miles ahead of Zotac's software. I didn't even install afterburner to try it with the EVGA as precision felt so easy to work with. If your build can fit a slightly larger Evga(10.12'' compared to 7.99'') it is definitely worth it. Especially since the EVGA is also cheaper at the moment. If not, I figure the Zotac would be at least as good as Gigabyte's ITX 970. At least it has 2 fans vs 1. I'ts not that horrible really. I think I'm just spoiled by EVGA. Full OC+quiet fan mode on - 76-78C during full load. At stock speeds during full load the Zotac would stay pretty quiet. The noise only ramps up when you OC it. Then would have to spin the fans at 2000-2300RPM(so about 50%), to keep the maximum boost on. The thing with Maxwell is, it doesn't throttle until it reaches 100C or something, but with GPU boost 2.0 it will slightly reduce the boost clock if the GPU hits 76C. So if the card is advertised as 1050 base, 1090 boost, it will most likely run at 1150 or something, until it hits 76C, when it will go down to 1130 or so. You would have to put it in an oven to get it throttle below the advertised 1090 boost.
For comparison a good 290 goes for about £250-260 now and back in the day the cheapest and shittiest 290 would go for £240+. UK prices finally matched US prices from Sept 2014, when the Titan X came out.
Sounds like a really nice 290 to have. I hadn't heard much about HIS before, but I'll make sure to recommend them from now on.
The card must be pulling over 300W when overclocked, I'm guessing. I know that at stock speeds it doesn't actually reached the stated 300W. So the VRMs will be roasting. Maybe you can put tiny heatsinks on the VRMs?
Yeap, that's where the fun is :P
The new G10 that they are going to release will be covering the VRMs as well :P Just heard it on the Computex coverage.
Wow 80% on the fans. I did put my fans at 100% this one time by accident and I had to hold my PC down as it was hovering in the air. j/k ofc, but on the EVGA, I think the fans go to something like 4500RPM, so it gets really noisy. I've never had it at more than 30% though.
A small rad should do wonders. When you think that the 295x2 has just 1 slim 120mm rad, it's just crazy how much GPUs benefit from liquid.
I use my OC profile like once every week or so. Other than that, I run all the games I play at 144 FPS min with vsync on. That's why I am hesitant of doing upgrades. A. I'm poor. And B. I already have 144fps in 90% of the games I play. So if you're like me, maybe you shouldn't bother. I loved what you did with project stalker by the way. Just a month ago I helped my gf sell her 8-year-old Dell system. While 'refurbishing' the system, I couldn't help, but marvel at the quality of the case. All it had for ventilation was a couple of 40mm fans or some as pathetic, but for someone who's not afraid to punch a few holes through the case, just he case was worth more than the contents.
So, you are trying to say that the reasons why this motherboard is recommended over other ones is in the livestream, made two weeks ago? Was it uploaded/archived somewhere? How can I access it?
12 749 on the graphics. I got 13 592 with 1501 on the core and 8414 on the memory. I think it was just stable enough to pass FireStrike though :D Crashed about 5-10 minutes into Far Cry 4. Anyway, I have found that memory overclocks only increase FireStrike scores and not in game FPS, so I've dropped it. Especially as I have no backplate or any kind of cooling for the memory chips and they tend to overheat and crash/artifact. Maybe if/when I get a waterloop going. :D For demanding games I just put a 1496/1501 overclock. I only really need it when I'm playing Euro Truck Simulator 2 with 400% scaling and watching vessel/youtube videos at the same time. I don't play FC4 anymore.
How is your noise/temps with that kind of overclock? I found that my card would reduce the boost clocks, if the temp hit 76C and the fans start to ramp up to about 1500 RPM to keep the card at 75C.
And also a disclaimer stating that some of the parts can be substituted for equivalents with a much more reasonable price tag. With a couple of example parts. Which is what awesomesauce did in his overkill pc console killer part.
Why do you recommend this motherboard over other A88X motherboards, which cost $50? What makes it stand out?
Kind of, but there's a few things, which can be improved. And I thought you wanted a m-ITX build? This is a mid tower, which is your standard sized PC.
You could save some on the RAM and PSU, but other than that, and even with that, it's a decent build.
You're welcome. I'm always glad to help.
Not sure whether the Z97 is worth it. I know that the z97 is guaranteed to be compatible with the broadwell CPUs on release, but the H97 might get BIOS updates later, or might lack compatibility. Although I am pretty sure it will be compatible, even if it's a month or two after release. And there's also the question of how wise an upgrade to broadwell would be. Not much really. By the time this starts to slow down, there will most likely be yet another generation of CPUs. Skylake, I think is the name, but I might be mistaken. And that's the only benefit of the Z97. As well as overclocking your memory beyond 1600MHz, which won't help with your kind of use. If the difference is $5-10, maybe worth it. If it's more, I personally wouldn't bother.
The graphics are separate from the motherboard. They are on the CPU. Intel states that the Integrated Intel HD 4600 pushes 4k @60HZ via display port/hdmi. The worst that could happen is that for some reason it doesn't do as well as you would like it, in which case you add a $40-50 GPU. Will take you about 10 min to install. But I am pretty sure the integrated graphics will do the job for you.
If someone's GPU(be it integrated in the CPU or motherboard or a dedicated GPU) just died because of 'overusing' they should just send the component back and request a replacement/repair as it failed due to poor quality. It sounds a bit silly to me to have a feature, which when used just breaks.
Now if your friend overclocked it and didn't pay attention to the safe temps/voltages, that's an entirely different story. But most components have a 2-5 year warranty. So whatever fails you just send back to them. Most of the time there's even a 1 year warranty with the retailer. And in the case of Amazon they will handle the case for you, even if it's more than 1 year.
If all hell breaks lose and the iGPU dies on you for any reason and you don't want all the hassle - $30-50 for a dedicated GPU and you're back in the saddle with a 1 day interruption. It's easier to install a new GPU than it is to remove an existing GPU and install another one.
I would suggest the i5. It should be good for 3-5 years or longer probably. The problem is that how snappy programs are often also relies on the architecture of the processor. It also has to do with the speed of the drive. And I am pretty certain that your laptop had a 5400 RPM slow HDD. The SSD is going to be about 10 times faster. So there's now way to get a 2017 architecture processor, but if you want you could get a Z97 motherboard, which is guaranteed to work with the next generation intel CPUs, which were supposed to be out Q3 2014. Still waiting for em, so yeah. They're nothing new though. They are new, but only 10% or so better than the current Haswell-Refresh.
I would say it's better to get the i5 now and spend later on an upgrade. By the time you need to upgrade it, the more powerful CPUs will be really cheap. That is why future-proofing is not appealing. You might spend $100 on a better CPU, but by the time you need the extra power that CPU is worth $100 less. Or even more than that. The i5 also produces less heat, which means it'll be quieter. It's not as powerful as the fx8350, but it produces a lot less heat than it and can fit in a M-itx case, while the 8350 cannot.
Not an m-Itx, only m-atx. The AM3+ socket is huge, so I don't think there are m-itx motherboards for the 8350.
Actually just yesterday at computex, I think it was Asus, announced a laptop with a desktop CPU in it. It's pretty big news. So the gap is getting smaller, but in the past it was much much wider.
The difference in price ends up being 10%(overall between the builds, not the CPUs themselves), which matches the performance difference and the 4790 build is going to be quieter.
The GPU power in this one is higher than in the integrated GPU in the 4790, but I think for just word documents, etc, the integrated graphics should be good for a couple of monitors.
A laptop. There is a huge difference. It sounded odd that an i3 would be having a hard time with browsing, etc. I3s are beasts for such things. But yours is a laptop i3, which is half as powerful, that's why you're experiencing slow downs. Just to compare it to my personal experience. I get 50 FPS on my 2 year old i3 laptop in League of Legends(popular non-demanding game) making it unpleasant to play - choppy, laggy, etc. The 860k, which is less powerful than the i3, plays League of Legends on high settings with 90 FPS. The gap between desktops and laptops is huge. Or at least it used to be huge, it's getting smaller now, but it used to be very large.
Are you interested in overclocking?
The video is not integrated on the motherboard, but on the CPU in this case. And it's fine if you overuse it. They have a 3-year warranty and usually last over 10 years. I can't even imagine overusing it really. Using it 24/7 full power, I am certain 99.5% of those chips would last a good 5 years, if not 10.
When comparing laptops to desktops it's basically halving the performance. A $1000 laptop will have the performance of a $500 PC or even less. So $1000 for just browsing, watching movies, streaming, etc is really a lot. Even $600 is a great deal.
Spending beyond this for a non-professional, non gaming PC - I would not recommend it. It's already way overkill. The i5 would do just fine, but if you want to be sure that it won't get bogged down, make it count. It's not a waste. The progression so far has been pretty linear. You get what you pay for. From here upwards you start to pay a lot to get small returns. The i5 is fine, if you want more the i7 is fine as well, but beyond that, it's just odd. Another option is to go AMD FX-8350/8320 and a discrete GPU. Something like an GT 720/730 should be enough for a non-gaming build. The 8350 is very powerful, especially in multitasking. It is nearly as powerful as the i7, just 10% lower. And it costs way less.
There is plenty of mini-ITX cases that can fit big GPUs and plenty of mini ITX GPUs to fit small cases, so even if you do decide to go for one, you don't have to compromise on the size. The 260x is a good card, but I feel like it would be a bit too much for what you need. Do you want to game on this machine? Also, your i3 is struggling most likely because it's an old model. Modern i3, the 4370 for instance, are quite the beasts.
$100 left for a case and PSU. And you really can get by with any PSU. 300W will be plenty. Just chose and ITX case of your liking. ThermalFake core v1 is cheap, but for a reason most likely.
I would recommend a better air cooler, such as the Noctua NH-D15. The 5820k can produce a lot of heat, when overclocked, so you'll probably find the extra cooling useful. And someone already mentioned - your motherboard is more expensive than your CPU and your GPU. Any particular reason? You can max out the overclocking capacity of an off-the-shelf cooling solution, before you reach the overclocking limits of even a budget motherboard, not to mention an enthusiast class one like this.
The rest seems pretty good.
I would actually strongly recommend looking for second hand parts. Perhaps an old 7850k/860k/intel i5 2500k, or something along the lines of that would be a great substitute, if you can get it for $50.
I don't know the person's situation. The 860+a gpu who's memory is not running at a desperate 1.6ghz, will undoubtedly be better.
Not much, to be honest. You won't even be able to play popular games like League of Legends or Dota 2. Maybe with 60 FPS at minimum settings for League, but Dota 2, you'd be lucky to get 30 FPS. This, however, will let you play any game out there. Maybe not Star Citizen, Elite, etc. games, but GTA V and other games should be doing 60 FPS or near 60 FPS on the right settings. Expect 70-80 FPS in League and 30+FPS in Dota 2 etc.
It's a really good quality high wattage PSU for a steal.The EVGA G2 is probably slightly better, but the Antec really is good enough for your needs. And it's $40 cheaper. If you're intend on spending that money - get a better cooler, not a PSU. This PSU is good enough for some 1.3V overclocks. The cooler on the other hand, I wouldn't go past 1.25v comfortably. Or you could put that $40 towards an SSD.
These would be a couple of suggestions for SSDs:
Looks good to me as a build. Can't see any compatibility issues.
CaseLabs don't sell in the UK. So, yeah, I'd really love to buy Thermaltake's AF51 silencer(R5 with better rad support) or their W series (SMA8 from Caselabs copy with cheaper materials), but I'm boycotting them because they are abusing small companies and purposefully stealing their designs.
Not a fan of Corsair either, but their cases are all right. Just not sure whether it's need, given the price difference. The Define S is £60-70, the 800-900D is over £250 and the CaseLabs is virtually impossible to obtain.
My needs are pretty modest. I am looking at something like a 4690k+2x970/980Ti, so I was thinking that I could get by with just a 420mm rad on the top and maybe a 280 at the front or 140 at the back/bottom. I only just noticed how not appealing the PSU looks in this case though. I might have to mod some kind of cover for it.
I don't think the GPU will get hot. The 980 Ti Hydro from EVGA sits at 50C overclocked under load with a single 120mm rad. It's just really Intel's ****** thermal paste that they use under the CPU's die that's causing all the trouble. It really sucks, when it comes to moving heat from the cores to the heatspreader.
Are you sure you have applied thermal paste properly on your CPU? Watching YouTube should be almost the same temps as idle on a CPU like this. 30 over ambient with such a massive surface area of rads just sounds ridiculous. For your CPU's sake I hope something has gone wrong with the thermal paste application, otherwise god knows what voltage the auto OC is applying to produce 30C over ambient on such a massive area of radiators.
The only thing I can compare it to is JayzTwoCents' 5960x running at 4.4GHz on a single 480mm rad. It's actually less surface area than what your CPU, more cores and a higher overclock and it still runs fine. Check out min 8:30-9:00
How are you finding the Define S? I am assuming you will be putting a waterblock on the 980 Ti?
If you have access to a Microcenter, you can get the 4690k for $200. The motherboard is priced quite highly for the features and quality it offers.
This motherboard offers the same set of quality/features and comes quite a bit cheaper.
That is a lot of money for the Spec-02. It's not a bad case. It's just a $30-35 case, not 60. Check out the NZXT S340, H230 or the Define S from Fractal Design. The Define S is bit pricier at $75, but it is in an entirely different category quality and feature wise.
Have you considered an SSD for your build? A 120GB SSD would bring you a lot of benefits and they can be had for as little as $50, or even less. It makes the whole system much faster and snappier.
That PSU is priced a bit high. And I would also feel better with 600W of power, as the 970 has been shown to use more power than claimed by Nvidia. Also as you overclock the power consumption increases even further. For instance my 4690k goes from 90W to 200W, when overclocked to 4.5 GHz. I would recommend this as a good option, if you are going to overclock both GPU and CPU:
The motherboard is enough for the CPU, but the CPU is too much for the GPU and the build overall. For a gaming build I would recommend the i5-4690k. The 4790k and the 4690k overclock equally well and the 4690k is actually better at overclocking. You are going for a full ATX mid-tower so it makes more sense to pick up an ATX board. I would also recommend a Z97 motherboard. You will need for overclocking. I would also recommend a better GPU, given your high budget. What resolution will you be gaming at? 1080p? Less? 1440p? The 290x is quite the beast at 1440p, but at 1080p the 970 pulls slightly ahead. I would also recommend using an Ethernet cable instead of Wi-Fi. It is much more reliable and performs way better while also costing a fraction of what a wi-fi costs. If you HAVE to use a wi-fi adapter, I would recommend a PCIe adapter and one that supports ac. Here's a summary of my suggestions:
Is that an external Rad? It's the first time I've seen one. I've never understood the cut-outs at the back of PCs for support of external rads. Is it a triple 140 outside and a dual 140 on the bottom? If anyone had told me they were going to do this, I'd said it's a bad idea. And I would have been wrong. Looks good, really good. Well done. Can't wait to see the part list with a description and a few more pics (:
Wise decision. Air For the win! :D
There's little point in getting 100FPS on a 60HZ screen. Anything beyond 60FPS will not be displayed. This would be able to give you a lot more FPS, and a screen to display those frames:
Leaves a tight budget for OS and peripherals, but if you are a student, you can get discounted prices for the OS or some schools/unis even give them out for free to their students. You can also get an OS much cheaper from G2A.
Upgrade the motherboard for the Z97 chipset, and downgrade the CPU to a 4690k+CPU cooler. Get an SSD, it will make the system much faster during everyday use.
The case is not bad, but $90 is waaay to much for it. I would strongly recommend an R4/R5 or Define S instead. Should be about the same price, if not cheaper.
Definitely need a better PSU for overclocking. I would recommend a Tier 2 or Tier 1 PSU from this list with at least 600W of power:
Semi or fully modular recommended.
1: I am not sure about the 6 vs 4 cores being better argument. The FX cores are so old, that the sum of 6 of them actually fares worse than the sum of 4 Intel cores. I can see the logic behind what you're trying to do, but it's fatal flaw is the fact that Intel's cores are about 50% better than AMD's. Pair that with the newer architecture of the i5, which makes it use the combined power of the cores better and overall, when as many cores as there are are used, Intel wins out by about 15%.
2:(but still continues from point 1) You can overclock to make up for this, which you can't on the 4590. However, you will need 4.0GHz, or more just to catch up. And if you are going to put in the money needed for a high end overclocking motherboard and cooler, you are looking at what a 4690k+z97+$30 cooler would cost you, which will perform better in any scenario.
1: (continued) I don't think that the FX-6300 is going to be better at those other things. They are very easy on the CPU, so there won't be a difference between the two CPUs.
3: The 4590 only comes to the same price if you have a Micro Center store nearby. They sell much cheaper in those.
$225 for the 4590+latest chipset motherboard. Low end, but that doesn't matter, since you can't overclock.
$222 for the FX. I looked at a few builds on PCPP using the 6300 and 212 evo and most seem to get 3.9-4.3 overclocks. Which means that games and programs that utilise all 6 cores will have a slight edge. So both are good deals, but I don't think there's anything inherently better about one over the other. With a 4.4GHz overclock with this mobo and cooler the FX provides more performance. With 4.0GHz they're equal. So I guess it depends on how much you can overclock it with this cooler and motherboard. But spending further on better motheboard and cooler, becomes less and less cost efficient.
Again, this is with a microcenter nearby. Without one, Intel costs too much.
Corsair is an overpriced sub-mediocre manufacturer. Talking about their fans and coolers, when it comes to cases they are a bit better, but still overpriced. It's not just Noctua that's better. Lately pretty much anyone's new fan model is better than Corsair's. And because their fans are so bad, their coolers can't be great, and they're not even good anyway. Link sucks. Cooling is just average, and noise is above average.
Don't use auto OCs, especially with stress tests. They will run ANY voltage. And they will actually increase the voltage to match the demand. A stress test will demand as much as it can. So yeah, manual OC is strongly recommended.
This will sound like I'm taking you for an idiot - but if I remember correct a wasted a lot of time on this myself. You have to click apply on Precision. Right hand side. On my 970 SC, I just slide the power to %110, leave the voltage stock and the card lets me push it to around 1490-1500. I've passed Firestrike with more, but 1496-1501 seems to be where it is for everyday use.
Awesome build though. Mine is something similar, or at least hoping to be, if I get a lottery ticket or a good job.
Real smart and elegant system. Unlike most red builds that just scream I'm a 17-y-old virgin and wanna look aggressive for the chicks :D
Corsair's rubbish. Big time in their fans.
Would you have a picture of the whole case with the system in it? Like on your desk or s.th. Just wanna look at it for some inspiration. Still debating whether to go red or green on mine (:
Nice cable management at the back!
Have you considered replacing the 6300 with an i5 4590? They perform better for gaming and it would end up costing about the same.
Since you are a first time builder and are building in a case, which is renowned for its lack of cable management, I would suggest a semi-modular power supply. I would suggest this one:
At the moment it's priced higher than what it's worth, but you check out the price log, it sells for $25 every couple of weeks or so.
Being semi-modular it means that it will come with all the cables, but you can only use the ones you need and just leave the rest in the box and stash it away. A non-modular PSU means that all the cables are permanently attached to the PSU and you have to keep them inside your case, whether you need them or not.