Has it worked in the past and now you are having a problem or is this a newly built system?
Did you add the fans to the appropriate channel? You have to add them manually.
I know, late to the party but Cyrix takes me back to the good ole days when Mhz meant something and we only had 2 genders. When I got the 4x86 it was an impressive upgrade over the 3x86. Then the Pentium 150, Voodoo 2 and a 19" CRT whoo hoo!! Quake 2 anyone?
Its been shown already with extreme overclocking to run at 6.8 GHz.
Yes its extreme over clocking and I don't have a can of LN2 in my basement but Stepongzi and GN reported the 9900k hit 6.8 Ghz on all cores with more to come. Is that not impressive?
Good to hear. The ram reserve is strange. Screenshot where you see that if you would. AMD doesn't have onboard graphics but I wonder if the MB has it reserved? Not sure about that.
Its all about the benchmarks. Hell I don't do much gaming anymore. Not until something worth while comes out. I like building them and then stressing them. OCD for the OC I guess. There are worse habits lol.
Never say you're not a techie, I think Mark was trying to make your head explode. Asus have always had excellent motherboards. The quality and compatibility are unmatched IMO and now most have purdy blinking lights. I am in the market as well and I have my eye on the X1 code or this one. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813119150
The capture card on the Godlike records or streams gameplay across platforms. As Betrayed said it is E-ATX meaning its physically bigger and it 600 bucks! If you're not a techie that to me seems like a waste but hey its your money.
Either board will carry you for several years at least. If you have money to burn and want a performance boost I'd be looking at Thread Rippers or i9-7980XE to pair with the 2080ti. Capture cards can be added.
Wife says the same thing. I think CobrasnakeYA deleted his account already.
Not sure what you mean sir. By mating I mean the male plug gets shoved into the female receptacle. Make sure you do this before "mounting" the motherboard or you might have difficulty getting it in. This is serious business buddy!!
I haven't bought AMD in a decade because of their godawful drivers
I haven't bought AMD in a decade because of their godawful drivers
In the past I had many driver issues with Radeon GPU's and had trouble getting AMD boards to post. I gave them what I felt was a fair shot. A friend of mine would swear by AMD and buy the latest GPU and literally could not use it until the drivers were released. That kind of thing is what makes fanboys. I've always had good experiences with Intel. I can't say the same for AMD. I'm sure the opposite is true for some. Its seems of late that AMD is starting to up their game. I hope it's true but I still see a lot more "My new rig won't boot" with AMD at the helm.
Agree, The 8 pin CPU cable plugs into the mating socket near the CPU. Best way to get answers that actually might help is to include a system parts list.
Not sure at what point you get the BSOD but if you haven't tried this already, during install when you get to the part where you select the drive, delete all the partitions and then create a new partition and format it.
I doubt you will get 700 for the rig. If it was me I would probably continue to try and find which part is causing the issue. I still think its one of the hard drives. Try using Windows Data Lifeguard Diagnostics from WD and see if tells you anything.
haha I posted a link to GN's video
Only other thing I can suggest would be to backup your stuff, format C, & re-install windows. Sometimes its easier to just start over. I would re-install windows with least components possible. After you have system stable start adding components and try to identify offending part.
What case is that?
Technically it just needs to post. Download this manual and make sure your ram is compatible with the motherboard if you haven't already done so. If it is compatible install only 1 stick in slot 1 closest to the CPU. Unplug all other drives. Hard drives USB drives and anything else. So you have only the video card, CPU, and 1 stick of ram installed. I assume you have the front panel connected properly. Double check it, use the manual to make sure you have everything correct. One other thing to look at, I'm not seeing how to reset the cmos. Is it a jumper? If yes make sure it is in the correct position. Also, do you have an 8 pin power supplied to the cpu?
Are you saying it took 30 minutes to boot? If so I would back up your important files and format the hard drive. Then when you are installing your apps select the option to NOT have the apps start with Windows. There is no need to have them start with windows and have them running in the background. 8 gigs of ram is good but 16 is better. As I mentioned earlier I think you would see a really decent improvement with an SSD. Install OS on SSD and use your other drives for storage. Even with a 120 gig SSD you'd still be able to install a couple games on it maybe.
Yeah I was pretty upset about that too. I wanted to shove that ECO button up EVGA's ***. But later I was happy to see my issue gone.
Are your fans coming on? Do you hear any hard drive activity? Is it just no video but the system seems to be powering up? What connection are you using to connect your monitor?
The funny thing about the GPU is the 600 bucks was originally going towards a RTX2080ti. But since the pricing is even more ridiculous than the 9900k I figured I choose the lessor of the two evils. Now that I have given it more thought maybe I'll use the cash for a console. : O
But the 2 extra cores and all those glorious threads and look at all the 9's in the name I9-9900k it's beautiful. And don't forget the big *** box you get. Not as big as AMD's but still, its a big *** box.
It would be the cheapest 1st step for sure. How long have you been using this system?
Maybe I'm a little confused. Are you using the GTX 1060 or the GT 710??
My guess would be you have a failing hard drive. I would try installing windows on an SSD and see how that works out. SSD's are getting cheaper and you would only need a 120 or 240 gb for the OS. If I'm right and that's a big IF not only will the SSD fix the issue but it will speed your system up dramatically.
First thing you should do is put together a build sheet so we all know you are running.
Not sure if we have the exact same PSU but I was having a similar issue. I turned off the ECO option and problem went away. My PSU has a button you slide to turn ECO off.
Have you updated the bios?
OP Its not advisable to daisy chain GPU's. Maybe that's what you heard.
GPU 1 in SLI is the primary GPU it will work harder so it being 100% during a game is normal I believe.
If it stopped glitching then I wouldn't worry unless it starts doing it again.
Get a SATA power splitter.
Use the process of elimination. Unplug all your **** and see if you can get the system stable. Then plug said **** back in one at a time until you find the offending component. Start by unplugging the 240 monitors.
I know nothing about AMD's but could the bios need updated to work with the CPU?
Remove the PSU and give it a sniff test outside of the case. When a PSU or other electronic device burns they tend not to smell like burgers on the grill. If no stinky start sniffing other components. The nose knows, you could have a fan dying.
Mystery problems like this in my experience have been related to drivers but on a few occasions the PSU was faulty. If possible swap PSU before reinstalling Windows. If that doesn't fix it then re-install windows, install only the programs you must have and make sure system is stable before installing Chrome. If you have success after installing Chrome go slow installing the rest of your programs and try to pin point the offending program.
CPU might be hitting thermal limits if cooler not seated properly. If reseating cooler doesn't work try removing everything and boot with just 1 stick of ram. If you get into the bios, add parts one at a time booting with each addition.
Check front panel connections
That would be nice if it were true. Prices are already increasing. They price based on replenishment. They have to charge more to be able to afford new stock coming in.
Not sure what configurator you used but this is a nice one that helps with the details.
I would undo the overclock. After you get your system stable then is the time for overclocking.
There are several video's related to fan placement. My take on it is it really doesn't make a lot difference whether the fan pushes the air through the radiator or pulls it. There was a small amount of benefit using a push/pull configuration. For you that would mean adding 2 additional fans. The more important thing IMO is having the fans pull air in from the front and blow it out the back and/or top. Check out Linus Tech Tips on YouTube and search fan configuration or something like that.
If your CPU is idling at 54c that is on the warm side and should be addressed. If its 54c under load then it is fine.
Agree, I have a 4790k and it keeps up with my 8700k in games just fine. She's starting to show some age but is still very doable.
It has to be AC. I've never had a DC shock unless my tongue is involved lol. I'm thinking no ground at the wall.
Never heard of built in on board ram. What ram is installed now and what slots is it installed in? Take a picture I am curious.
After you get it all cleaned add an anti algae agent. Then next year you just do a flush and done. Helps with galvanic corrosion too.