Sounds like a bad slot, however I would still try to get 2 and 4 working. Try putting them back in slots 2 and 4 and alternate the sticks. Maybe one of the dimms wasn't seated properly. If MB is under warranty you could RMA it but if its not worth the time and effort 1 and 3 will be okay. My OCD would not allow it lol.
There really isn't too many ways to check either. If available try using a different one to at least eliminate it as a cause. Just sounds like it may not be getting enough juice.
PSU functioning properly?
Agreed, you could try putting 1 stick at a time into slot 1 and make sure both are working like cramstr mentioned. If both work you should be okay with them in slot 2 and 4. Of course you could have a bad slot. Let us know how it works out.
slot 2 and 4 are usually the slots you use if you only have 2 sticks. I think ya hit the nail on the head.
I think the case has decent air flow from the front. If adding fans doesn't work and the budget allows you may want to consider adding an AIO with the rad mounted in front.
I would start by unplugging all the drives and anything else not needed to get to the post screen. With just your video card and 1 stick of RAM installed plug your monitor in and see if you get a post screen. If you do shut down and start adding parts one at a time, checking for a post screen with each addition until you run into the problem. At least you will have pin pointed the issue. Let us know how you do.
I don't see an 8700k being much of an upgrade really. Like Kschendel said, I'd check to see if your software will take advantage of more cores and more threads. Check to see what CPU is recommended for your cad/cam program and let us know.
Cooling an 8700 with air requires a lot of air. You need to draw a lot of air in from the front and push it out the top and back so the cooler air hits the CPU cooler. 28-35 isn't terrible but the goal should be as close to ambient as possible at idle. Never hurts to replace the TIM unless you've run out and don't know it.
You should enter a build so we have a complete picture of your rig.
I used to do the Pacific Standard Heist finale glitch for money. Now its the Act 3 finale glitch. No grinding really. With friends its still a good time. Modders ruin it but I don't spend a lot of time in the lobbies.
GTA5 without question. Been playing it since 2013 on PS3. Moved my guy to PC the day it was released. Its available on Steam for $19.00 until 9/10/18 I think.
I went with a Corsair AIO and did a de-lid on my 8700k. Temps currently in the low 70's c under full load with 5Ghz OC. Before the de-lid with same AIO it was hitting 90c. The de-lid offered a 15c decrease for me. I posted a screen shot of temps in my build pics.
Windows 10 activation is tied to your Microsoft account also. Maybe 1 or 2 major changes don't trigger the man?
Thanks, it was a fan noise thing for me. Its nearly silent and brought temps down also. Not sure I care for the look so much but I might trade up depending how the 2080's perform.
Sadly by posing the question it is clear you are already regretting it. I am guilty of the same thing. It always seems to cost me more in the long run. From now on I am not only going to spend this month rent on stupid PC crap but next months rent as well.
The main reasons for overclocking is benchmark numbers, bragging rights, and the challenge of getting a stable clock. Over clocking will gain you a few extra FPS but it will not suddenly allow a game to work on your machine that wouldn't work before. It can make a big difference if you're getting 52 FPS in a game and your OC gets you 60 or more. Overclocking is not what it used to be. Megahertz used to mean something. Going from a 120 MHz Pentium CPU to a 300 MHz Pentium 2 was huge :). Now you can OC by pushing 1 or 2 buttons gain 1000 MHz and it really doesn't make all that much of a difference. The manufacturers used to discourage it now they have teamed up to encourage it. They saw a demand, made it easy and built in safeguards. Its much harder to destroy stuff now unless you are a complete nincompoop. : )
Look for a way to reset to factory default
Its not likely you will notice much of a difference unless you are overclocking. Its always better to have matching pairs.
Are you asking if your Opticrap 780 will fit in a different case? If that is what you are asking the main board is probably proprietary and will only fit in the case it came in. Just add some ram if you can and put a SSD in that puppy. You'll be playing minesweeper in no time.
I read the mounting bracket for the wraith prism may have some issues. Thermal paste can get you a couple degrees but it ain't going to fix a 60c idle temp. If the problem persists I'd look for a better cooler.
Wait for the reviews of the new RTX cards and Intel CPU's. We are talking about only a couple weeks. Your budget could land you a very nice machine. If you can't wait GFTG2000 made a good list for you.
Technically the Kraken is a water cooler. It's just sealed AIO. If it was me and I planned on a custom loop for my GPU I would include the CPU in the loop and have a fat radiator. What I actually did was AIO cool both the CPU and GPU and I'm getting good temps and it was cheaper and less of a pain. Check it @ https://pcpartpicker.com/user/Xx_Hemi_xX/builds/
I have a Kraken x62 on my other build and so far it is doing a great job and looks good too.
Remove all components except 1 stick of ram. Just the bare minimum to boot. Unplug USB drives etc. If no BSOD add components back one at a time until you get BSOD and ID the offending component. If you get BSOD with minimal boot format HDD and reinstall windows.
Did enabling AHCI work?
It amazes me how many hoops AMD makes people jump through just to get a system to boot. Its cool how the MB's have same sockets and can be updated to support newer CPU's but damn. They have loner CPU's for this?? haha. Intel needs better competition.
I'll give this a shot. First off forget all about setting primary display. If I understand correctly, you just received a brand new video card and you put an aftermarket cooler on it? Is that correct?
Okay, did you try swapping video cards?
As long as you're sure everything is legit.
Format C: Then enter activation code during installation.
As Haze said temps are fine. Did you try increasing fan speed for more air?
You said "Tried cmo with no luck" What's that mean? I was going to say try resetting/Clearing CMOS. Remove motherboard battery.
A higher OC is not the fix for this. Sounds like you have a program running in the back ground that's using up your CPU. Open task manager and check what program is doing it and uninstall it. If its a program you need you can try re-installing. If that ain't it try this, Reset bios to default settings. Make sure you only have the bare minimum components so the system can boot. Unplug all USB drives. Do you have the OS installed on the m2 drive? if so unplug the SSD. Try 1 stick of ram in far left slot. If you are able to boot normal you can add back components one at a time to determine which component is causing the problem. Good luck and advise if you get it fixed so others can benefit.
That's called near future proofing.
He has a point, I'd set the rear and top to exhaust and all the fronts to intake. You'll get more air across the GPU.
You should not need to disable the onboard graphics. However, you would disable it in the bios. Try resetting the card in the pcie slot. If available try putting it into a different slot. If that doesn't work put 480 in another machine and make sure it still works. If it still works toss wife's PC out window and buy your lovely wife a decent machine lol. AMD stuff is cheap and does a good job but they still have and always have had driver and compatibility issues, if you're a novice stick with Intel and NVidia. Far less compatibility issues IMO.
Each node has 2 channels. I have 6 fans plugged into channel 1 and 4 led strips plugged into channel 2. If you have them all in there fighting for space and power this might help clean up the back side a little.
The V-sync is not enabled with a GTX card but it looks excellent. I got 2 of these for the price of a single G-sync monitor. I might go G-sync later if the prices come down.
I'd like to see more pics. I almost went with this case but opted for the 500d SE.
There are a lot of opinions on this. There has been a lot of testing of these opinions as well. There is not a lot of difference between the various opinions as far as temps go. For my system and most of the systems that I have built, I have cool air coming in from front and blown out the back and top. The fans are in a push config meaning they push air through the radiator rather than pull. The PSU sucks air in from the bottom and blows it out the back. Check out Jaystwocents on YouTube.
They had mine stuck to inside of the case. I had to very carefully unstick it. Pissed I was. Corsair shouldn't mount the thing.
It is only the Commander Pro and it comes with the case. Looks like I need to add more fans to the list though, thanks.
Your cable management skillz far exceed mine. Looks like I'll be revisiting my 500d SE soon. You are an inspiration damit lol. Nice work!!
I'll be posting my server build in the 500d. It's got 2 SSD's and 2 3.5 HDD's. Not as pretty but door shuts....
Not sure I worked on it in the evening in my spare time. I'd guess maybe 6-8 hours to put it all together. You just need a lot of cable ties. I also used some high quality servo tape for some of the more stubborn cables. The doors are held by magnets so you can't have anything sticking out passed the edge.
They were cheap : )
I like them a lot. Newegg has refurbished units fairly cheap.
That's how it works and you'll need to download Asus Aura software to run them.
I don't see a button to add pictures either.