I'm a little confused. What were you using before your tried the HDMI cable? Can you connect your HDMI cable to a different monitor or TV to see if the same thing happens? The idea is to eliminate the monitor as the cause first then go from there.
If you cool your CPU with air your case needs good air flow. The case only seems to have a single exhaust fan. This is not ideal IMO. If you can add a fan or 2 to the top I would make then intake. This would draw cooler air over the CPU and blow it out the back. If all your fans are exhaust fans the cooler air being drawn in would be restricted. Try it both ways and see what works best. Get noctua fans they are some of the best.
850 is more than enough. New parts fail too especially if they are over heating. Put your hand over the fan opening, it should be warm but not hot. If its hot and the fan ain't running then I'd think that was the problem. I have EVGA PSU's and never had a problem. Now I will go home and my PSU will *** me.
Just back up the files you want to keep. Windows 10 install is simple especially if you let Bill invade your privacy.
The way Intel is moving forward 6 cores will be around for a millennia. They came out with an 8 core but they listened to the community and soldered the IHS. To do this they had to make the core thicker which doesn't allow for good thermals. AMD needs to set the bar now, hopefully in 2019.
The best-laid plans of mice and men.
Sounds like a failing PSU but who knows. Try only 16 gigs of RAM installed in slots 2 and 4 and see how that does. I just notice you have bunches of hard drives. Unplug all except OS SSD as well. If symptoms disappear plug back in 1 drive at a time until symptoms return which might tell you the drive causing issues.
You will need a USB flash drive larger than 4 gigs. A 4 gig might work but better to have more. Download the windows installation tool and it will help you create a bootable flash drive that you use to install Windows.
You only described your system as losing FPS, is it functioning normally other than games and benchmarks? You will need your windows key so it can be entered when you reinstall. Do you have the original disc with the key? You don't need a spare PC for this.
Replace motherboard battery, this will clear the cmos at the same time. Unplug hard drives, USB drives and do a minimal boot to bios. Let us know if this helps at least get a stable bios.
This may seem drastic but from what you describe and temps being normal maybe you should look at reinstalling Windows. If you do this make sure you format the HDD so that everything is removed. Good luck at let us know if you fix it.
Are you saying something hit the antenna? If yes than you may have damaged the terminals on the motherboard. An Antenna is just a booster so to speak for your Wi-Fi. You can look for a replacement antenna on Asus' website but you could also just add a USB wireless adaptor if the motherboard was damaged.
You should put a build list together so everyone knows what components you have. It is difficult to make suggestions not knowing if they are applicable with your system.
Thanks for replying. It is good to know the issue was fixed and why. Ram can be a real pain especially for first time builders.
Also, without a start button on the motherboard, it is hard to determine if the front IO panel is connected properly. The power switch on the case could be bad or a wire came off etc. The only other way is to short the power terminals with a jumper or flat head screw driver. Remove the front IO panel connector. You can look at the adaptor I see you have to see what pins to short. You simply touch both pins with the jumper or screw driver. Make sure all power cords are connected proper first of course.
I think goodperson was suggesting that some of the cables especially for the 24 pin connector can be difficult to seat all the way into the motherboard. Did you hear a "click" There should be no gap between the connector and the motherboard receptacle. I'm not sure if a 24 pin connector actually has 24 wires, are you saying it only has 23 wires connected to the 24 pin connector? Maybe someone else can confirm that.
Wired is the way to go for online gaming IMO.
If possible connect another monitor or TV to see if same thing happens. If PC works as normal RMA monitor.
Assuming you have your OS on the SSD, unplug both hard drives power and sata and see if symptoms disappear. If they do plug in 1 hard drive at a time and see if symptoms return. If they return you can run diagnostics on the offending hard drive.
What RPMs are you getting for the pump? On extreme mine is around 2700. Pump RPM does not
make much diff for temps but should be 1k or above. Obviously fan speed is important.
In iCue click the AIO icon at the top. Click performance on the left then click "extreme" in the drop down. Click pump and any fans you have connected. Close, reboot and check if settings were saved. That's how I do it and the settings are saved.
Follow what Steve said if that doesn't work unplug all hard drives, usb flash drives and all other peripherals so you have only CPU, CPU cooler, KB, and mouse with 1 stick of ram in slot 2 and see if you get anything. I see you said something about changing the VGA power? Not sure what that means but try swapping the HDMI cable to your monitor assuming you are using the HDMI connection which you should be in any event. : ) Good luck and let us know what happens.
As long as the top fan is not making racial or sesual comments to the radiator fan they should be fine.
In terms of cost of performance the RX580 and GTX 1060 are nearly identical with the 1060 just slightly more expensive. The GTX 1070 is a much better performance option but the cost is significantly higher than the RX580. Shop around for a new 1070 as these were used extensively in the crypto frenzy.
The best use for the larger labels is to adhere them to the tail of your mom's cat. Quite entertaining I must say.
Corsair's software is total ****. It works but you need a masters in phycology to figure WTF they were thinking. I've been using it for a long time and still say WTF every time I try and do something with it. When you select the fan curve it should save your settings automatically. You can connect the fans to your motherboard and set the fan curve that way depending what motherboard you are running.
HOWEVER!! Even with the fans on low your idle temps should not be that high. You might want to consider reseating the CPU block with some new thermal compound and see if that helps your idle temps. Make sure you press it down evenly and keep it firmly in place while you tighten the screws down. Don't let Corsair turn you off of AIO coolers they are a better cooling option IMO.
I have this case and the 2080ti will fit without any issue and it is beautiful. Unfortunately Corsair thought it would be a good idea to sticky tape the commander Pro to the inside of the case. You can carefully remove it and stick it to the backside if you want. You made some really good choices. Gigabyte has the best VRM for the CPU from what I have read. The bios is less straight forward than an Asus board but shouldn't be a problem. As for an OC for your ram I'd set XMP in advanced CPU core settings and be done with it. Usually with a m.2 drive installed sata ports 5/6 are disabled. Good luck and post your build with pics, there aren't too many with this case.
If I was to make a wild guess I'd say you need to confirm the wiring for your front IO panel. You could confirm this by pressing the start button on your motherboard to see if it powers up but I am clueless if you even have one.
Since you don't know where to go and we don't know where you've been I'd suggest a build sheet so we know what you have. What have you tried to resolve your issue? Explain with some detail exactly what your PC is doing or not doing.
Keep in mind depending on your bios version you may not see exactly as I describe but it will be similar. You should see on the left, CPU, Memory, Storage, "Fan Info" & Help. Click "fan Info". You want to adjust system fans. Click 1 2 or 3 to select the fan to control and click the gear settings icon on the right. You will see a graph with some dots. Each dot controls the rpm based on temp. Left click and hold on the first dot and move it up. You may have to hit apply or you might hear the fan spin up. Do this for all the fans and you can ID them and adjust speed as needed. Good luck let us know if this works. If not we can look at the PSU.
You can get a SATA power splitter. A single power connection from the PSU can handle 3 devices easy.
Google HWmonitor, its free and checks most system components.
Well that's lame. lucianojamimbo has a MSI board maybe he can tell you what to look for in the bios to adjust fan speed/curve. I'll look when I get home if there are no further replies.
The fact is has a name on it is a good sign lol. Let us know what you find.
You got mail
Yep BR drive, try in another system if you can.
If your idle temps have always been 50c then they have always been high. You should idle around 29 to 35 give or take. I have had good luck drawing an X with thermal paste on the IHS and press down cooler firmly. Tighten screws evenly so to keep the cooler level. Use a good paste, Artic Silver 5 is good stuff but its old school. Grizzly Kryonaut is the current top brand. If temps don't change and remain high as you said then your AIO pump may have failed. To be sure you can check the pump rpm in the bios if equipped.
If you have the MSI Bazooka B250M motherboard you can download "MSI Command Center" and adjust fans speeds with it.
Okay, first thing to look at is the fan speed setting. The factory may have set them to run at slowest speed so system is quiet. Since they are older now and probably cheap they need a little more juice to get moving properly. Pictures are kind of dark, is there any kind of external fan controller? If not you'll need to adjust speed within the bios if the fans are PWM. Do you know how to get into the bios by mashing delete key when you power up? Could be your PSU but lets do what we can before spending money.
The frozen state you refer to is simply the system turned off. Your OC might be drawing more current than the PSU can provide so it shuts off. But like Crazyfool said first thing to do is remove OC and check your temps. Use HWmonitor its free and will check temps for CPU GPU and HDD's. If temps are okay it might be PSU. How old is it?
Are you saying the system turns on but the fans don't? Or are you saying nothing turns on? Before buying new stuff give more detail about what the system is and is not doing.
Not sure if I understand but I'd use the back plate that came with the new cooler.
I'd tear it all down and redo before buying new ****. You could work on that wire management at the same time. Bench test it out side the box and then keep testing as you go.
Slow down there Kimosabe. You need to fix first things first. With no video signal to your monitor no bootable USB stick in the world is going to help. And you do not access the bios with a USB stick. When you say "there is no video display" do you mean there is no signal to the monitor with no messages or blinking cursors? It's just blank right? Put together a build list so the people trying to help at least have an idea of what you are looking at and may suggest diagnostic options.
Bad slot rma mother board imo
Mixing ram is sometimes risky. Most everyone has done it in a pinch. Best thing to do would be to wait so you have the same ram or buy a16 gig set. I'm still leaning towards the PSU being the problem but its a guessing game. Friends or relatives with a spare PSU to try would also be free.
What I mean by "clean power" is the current itself not dust inside the PSU. As electronics age the output sometimes is diminished. But if it needs cleaned that's always good to do. If its getting too hot because the fans are clogged that can have a diminishing effect as well. Slow ram or not having enough ram would normally just make your system slower but if your PSU is not keeping up that certainly can cause crashes. Selecting XMP is a good suggestion as it doesn't cost anything. Let us know if it does the trick. Another free thing to do would be a fresh Windows install.
Thanks Mark, I've been leaning towards the MSI for a few days now. The EVGA isn't available so there isn't much detail on it. Thankfully I'm not in a rush so I'll keep researching. If you have any other suggestions I'd like to hear them.
Just a guess but if fortnite is maxing out your ram and when recording it crashes, I'd probably add another 8 gigs. PSU should be okay unless it is aging poorly. Clean power with some head room is probably one of the more important things to have.
This is why you make the big money.
The table that has the best chairs would be my choice. Static really isn't an issue these days with modern components. Just don't be silly like wearing cotton socks rubbing your feet along the carpet to see if you can get an arc from your finger to your CPU.