Hard to say as I never really paid much attention to the differences. I'd say they are the same for a given RPM. However, they were louder because I had no control over the RPM fluctuations due to their software. The major change in noise is that I can keep them at a constant low speed and ramp up on a curve based on exhaust temperatures from the Aquaero instead of CPU usage.
The Thermaltake TT fans have a custom connector and only work with their controller and software.
To clarify, you are looking for White framed RGB fans? If so maybe edit the title to clarify.
Sorry I cannot help though. I was on a quest for white framed RGB fans myself and came up empty when I built my PC-O11D. But I'll be following to see what you come up with!
Do I need to plug the fan's RGB connector or whatever and the hex shape's RGB connector into separate headers, or does something like a bundled connector come with the case?
The product sheet claims the 3-way splitter is included:
1 to 3 Splitter Cable for RGB LED Fans: The RGB Connector Splitter and 4 pin male to male adapters are included.
This would allow you to use the motherboard RGB header to control the color. However, each "zone" will always be the same color in this case. These are not addressable RGB LEDs.
Can I just get a y splitter and power 2 fans per MOBO fan header?
Yes, you can do this. They are 4 pin PWM fans. If you use a 2-way or 3-way splitter then the motherboard will send the PWM signal to all 3 fans. But keep in mind the motherboard will only see the RPM for 1 of the fans (usually labeled on the splitter which one has the signal wire).
Would this half the power or rpm to each fan because of the splitter?
Nope, the PWM signal is what controls the fan speed. All the fans should get 12 volts.
Or do I need a fan controller like the Corsair commander pro?
This is something optional you can add, and would allow you to control fan speeds in addition to the RGB in the same Corsair iCUE software. However, there are only 4 fan PWM ports on Commander Pro. You would still need a splitter or two.
The only thing that can be an issue is the amount of current the fans will draw on a single motherboard header. Usually, a motherboard header is rated for some amount (for example, 15 watts) and fans will have a maximum rated draw (such as 5 watts). In my example, you wouldn't want to run more than 3 fans on one header as it could pull more than the rated header current and possibly burn out something. In my experience 2 or 3 fans per header is fine.
One of the RGB ports goes to the RGB hub which will power the RGB for 6 fans. But if you want to control the fan PWM as well you'd need at least 1 x 3-way or 2 x 2-way PWM splitters as the Commander Pro only has 4 PWM fan headers. You could always do 4 fans on the Commander Pro PWM and 2 on motherboard headers.
The RGB strips can be chained together (I think up to 4 strips) on the other RGB ports of the Commander Pro.
The Commander Pro includes the functionality of the Lighting Node Pro (the 2 RGB hub / strip connections). The Commander Pro adds some fan, sensor, and USB headers. You'd still need the RGB hub (which all the fans RGB connect to) with either.
The 3-packs of the ML or LL fans come with the Lighting Node Pro and 6 port RGB hub. In this scenario, you would run the PWM from motherboard headers and RGB to the hub.
I don't think I will re-do the tubing in this chassis. I'm waiting for a newer dual-chamber chassis to come out where I can separate the radiator completely (the closest I can find to what I want is the Parvum L1.0). Then I might move to hard tubing or just build a new machine.
There are definitely a lot of good hard tubing builds in this chassis around and they do look amazing! I just didn't think it was a good idea to try hard tubing for first time custom loop.
have you found there to be a good site to filter, and find headphones like this?
Maybe something like https://www.head-fi.org/. I usually just go with what looks like it works well. Particularly, I really like the bose "StayHear" style tips that hook into the ear. I don't know others that have this design. I've been using these style Bose for a while and keep coming back to them.
what's the purpose or use of this thing? is it needed?
The headphones are a 4-pole connector which usually doesn't work in a computer soundcard. The ports on the computer are going to have one for mic input and one for audio output. The splitter separates the single connector of the headphones so that the mic and audio are separate and can be plugged into the mic and audio ports of the soundcard. It isn't needed on devices like phones because they natively support 4-pole 3.5mm connectors. The Bose headphones don't come with this splitter.
what's the purpose or use of this thing? is it needed?
No, it isn't strictly needed if the headphones will reach the ports of the computer. But on my machine the Bose headphone cable with the splitter isn't long enough to reach all the way to the back of my computer.
The splitter separates the mic and headphones into separate plugs that go right into the mic and audio jacks on the back of my computer. Then I have a 4-pole extension on the splitter that lays on the desk next to my keyboard where I can plug the SoundSport into the extension.
I've also run this setup on my previous computer without the extension by just going into the splitter on front panel mic / headphone jacks. But the SoundSport cable isn't that long and it is nice to have an extra 3 feet or more to run the cable somewhere comfortably out of the way.
The mic works well and surprisingly seems to have similar or less background noise than my friends gaming headsets. It works well in Discord activating with my voice but doesn't pick up my keyboard or other on-desk noises.
You might have to look for older / used to get the 3 x 5.25 slots. Older cases that would satisfy a dual-chamber with 3 x 5.25 would be:
Caselabs SMA8 (hard to find, was a modular front option)
Corsair 900D
Silverstone TJ07
Silverstone TJ11
The only current cases I can think of that have 3 or more 5.25 are the Thermaltake cubes. If you haven't already, check out the Thermaltake X5 and X9. Both sort-of dual chamber with 3 x 5.25. You might also look at more boutique custom shops for something like the Mountain Mods U2-UFO or LD PC-V8.
I have two S2716DG and both of them are grossly bright with the factory settings. I don't have it in front of me but I think i have the brightness now set under 25%. If you haven't tried adjusting the settings I would check out some Amazon reviews which have some good starting settings for this monitor.
Another thing I have been doing lately (which is a very user preference thing) is running Night Light (and Night Shift on my Mac) 24/7. Yea, your colors are going to be all wrong. But it helps with eye strain a bunch.
It's a shame there are not more cases that have a separate radiator chamber design. For my next build I want to separate radiator intake and exhaust from everything else. It seems like the list is currently limited to:
Thermaltake X71
Parvum L1.0
Corsair 900D (discontinued, no longer found)
Caselabs SMA8 (now defunct, no longer found)
Lian Li V3000
I'd love to see a more mainstream design like the Parvum specifically for water cooling.
If that is how you like to rationalize spending money that is fine. I run everything off a single 1 TB 970 Pro because I want speed and don't want to deal with multiple drives. If you are not worried about the cost I would just run a single NVMe drive and avoid having to deal with two drives.
The performance of 1 vs 2 NVMe drives isn't going to be noticeable if you are still loading applications or files all from 1 drive at a time. The only difference here would be if you were running some sort of RAID 0 (striping) or RAID 1 (potential 2x read performance?).
In applications where you have work that you don't want to lose, I'd run a second drive (such as a larger HDD) that is just used for backup. Even then I'd probably prefer this drive to be external so that it can move around and not necessarily need to be connected to the computer all the time (ie. backup every once in a while and then store the drive in a safe place).
I ended up using the pliers in combination with some special tweezers for small parts. I did manage to get the ring off safely. However, the rest of the fan has a bunch of press-fit and melted plastic parts to hold it together. I couldn't modify what I needed to without breaking the fan :(
The only place I could actually find any information on the Lian Li RGB hub was at http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=182462. The connectors look like 3 pin which usually means they are addressable LED instead of the standard single color RGB. Short answer is "no", you cannot use the Lian Li hub in this case.
On the fan PWM side you would need at least 2 x 3-way splitters. This would let you create some groups of fans on a single channel (for example, if you had 3 fans on a radiator you might just consider them all 1 channel):
1 fan channel for a group of 2 or 3 fans
1 fan channel for another group of 2 or 3 fans
4 channels for 4 individual fans
On the RGB side you will need at least two 3-pack of LL fans that come with the RGB hub. Then you would:
Connect 4 fans to one RGB hub
Connect 5 fans to the other RGB hub
Connect each of the RGB hubs to SATA power
Connect each of the RGB hubs to the commander pro 2 LED ports
I love the loop in the PC-Q37. Do you have any photos showing the case with panels on in full frame? All of your photos seem to be of close-up shots or the glass is off.
I love the white fans in the PC-O11DW. I'm trying to figure out how to modify my existing EK Vardar EGB fans into a white Vardar chassis so I can have a similar look.
I ended up getting some snap ring pliers with different sized tips. Unfortunately, the smallest sized tips are not small enough and I can't get both ends to fit in the small opening. Still looking for a way to get the ring off without destroying it :(
I just want to reiterate kylezobl last point a bit
it all depends on how you want your system to look.
If you buy for what other people like you are just going to get recommendations for every case out there. I would say the look of the case is subjective and that you should be getting one that looks good to you. After all, it will be sitting on your desk and you will be the one looking at it the most.
I don't own any of these cases. But I have an opinion on why these could still be considered good buys 4-5 years after their releases:
The 750D was one of Corsairs top-of-the-line cases when it was released. The higher end cases are usually built a bit better with latest features and support for a wide range of peripherals which helps them stand up to time better.
Both the 750D and Enthoo Pro are full towers. Since full towers are larger they tend to favor more expensive builds such as custom loop water cooling. The extra space likely helps them stand up to time better.
4-5 years ago we were not as obsessed with RGB and glass panels everywhere. A lot of the recent cases we are seeing with glass side and front panels are likely sacrificing cooling performance for looks. You might actually get better cooling performance out of the older full towers with mesh fronts.
Like others mentioned, it isn't very popular unless you are in their more target markets. If you are in Europe you may have better luck finding it under their KFA2 brand name (http://www.kfa2.com/).
I don't have that installed. But is your memory even in dual channel? I think each side needs 2 x sticks populated for the Threadripper per it's dual-die design. You may only be running single channel on each bank.
I would say, in general, this CPU is not a good for gaming. It does underperform in games like COD:BO4. But I easily hit my 144 FPS frame limiter in games like Battlefield V.
I was thinking about getting a 1 to 3 pwm fan splitter and running all three fans off the one header
This should be fine and is the easiest to do before getting into fan controllers.
They have different max RPMs so would this interfere with the one header?
No, it will work. The PWM signal is a duty cycle usually measured from 0-100%. The fans will all receive the same duty cycle (such as 80%) and run at whatever RPM is normal for that duty cycle. But 80% on one fan will likely be different RPM than 80% on another fan (since, as you have mentioned they are different specs).
Another thing to keep in mind is that the PWM splitters only wire the signal to one fan. This means that you can only see the RPM for one of the fans (usually labeled on the splitter with a little tag or the first port).
Does it show up in device manager (it should be under Universal Serial Bus devices)? If not, it sounds like maybe there is a problem with the USB connection. Are you connecting it USB to a motherboard header?
With the ROM in the same folder as nvflash.exe the command is something like:
nvflash.exe <rom_filename>
If it is a ROM from another manufacturer you'll need to use the -6 option like:
nvflash.exe -6 <rom_filename>
For reference, I'm getting a huge performance boost by running the Palit 2080 Ti BIOS on my FE card (basically giving a higher power limit than stock).
Keep in mind, none of this is official and is very likely a "use at your own risk" kind of thing.
Though, I can't recommend the manufacturer included ones like Corsair or EVGA. The Corsair ones are super stiff and hard to work with and I've heard the same about the EVGA ones.
