No problemo :)
A good microfiber cloth shouldn't shed lint on first use. In any case, you'll notice anything on the CPU or the cooler block, so just clean it thoroughly and if needed use tissue paper.
I'm probably gonna go p600s because I want a closed side panel non-RGB system, but that'll be later in the year anyway so I'll probably have changed me mind again haha.
Good luck with the build :)
I am looking to change my AIO from my quite old Cooler Master Nepton 240M to an EVGA CLC 280 (the 360 isn't commonly available here. Here the Kraken x72 is more expensive & hard for me to get locally, I've not heard anything bad about it, if that's what you want then you should get it.
Clean thermal paste with a small amount of high purity isopropyl (90% to 99%) alcohol and a good thin microfibre cloth or tissue paper will work fine. Just put a bit onto the paste, let it soak for a few seconds then start cleaning it off. Get all the gunk out then give it another go over with the alcohol until it's all cleaned off then wait for it to evaporate, shouldn't take more than 10 minutes.
Either of those will work fine. It'll likely also be available at a local hardware store or chemist shop/pharmacy.
If you really really want something "specific" for cleaning thermal paste then Arctic Silver make a product called "ArctiClean", which is more useful when you have really old thermal pads as opposed to regular thermal paste. I have no idea how widely available it is though. But it does the job as described really well. If it's cheap then might as well use it if you can get it.
And if you're cleaning things up I'd also get some higher tier thermal paste. I would pick Cooler Master MasterGel Maker.
well this is a build you won't see everyday
No, I have a Define R5. I've just been looking at a new case and the H500M was one of my three main choices (the other two being the Meshify S2 and the Phanteks P600S which is the case I'm probably going to get in the end) so I got used to what it can do.
On one hand, yes, having mesh increases the noise. On the other, the better CPU temps usually mean your fans don't work as hard because your fans won't ramp up as much. The glass panel probably does more to increase noise than the mesh does.
Honestly though you probably won't notice it as much because of the bigger fans, bigger fans spin slower and make less noise.
It'll be fine. Most of the air will exhaust out the top anyway. I've got my PC under a desk with about that much space to the rear and the back panel and it exhausts fine.
Your board has a CPU Fan connector, a CPU/AIO_Pump connection and 3 other 4 pin fan connectors.
The H500m's two fans have a splitter that connect the two fans to a single system fan connection (via the fan controller I believe, which uses a Sata Power connection). I would assume it would work fine on the CPU Optional Fan Connector header. Your board has one RGB LED Header (but not an ARGB header), so you be "stuck" to the fans only showing one colour at a time (i'm not an RGB expert though, I don't use it).
The X72 fans don't connect to the board fan headers. There is a triple splitter that you connect the three fans into, which plugs into the AIO Pump (which is powered by a Sata power connection). On that set of cables there is a 3 pin cable that you connect to the CPU_FAN connector. You then finish by connecting the USB cable from the AIO Pump into your board. I assume that radiator fan control is determined at some point by either the software you install or software built into the AIO pump.
And then you've got the three regular headers for the rear and the two top fans. Worst comes to worst you could always use a splitter on the top exhaust fans.
No problemo. Good luck with it :)
fractal meshify s2
cooler master nr 600
fractal meshify c
coolermaster h500p mesh
I've been looking at a new case and my decision would be the H500M if you want RGB cancer, and the P600S if you want a more normal look. These both also have USB Type C on the front.
The P600S has a dual mode feature where you can have a silent build by keeping the front and top panels covered, and a airflow build by removing the panels. It also has a model with no glass side panel which is the one I will be moving to assuming no other top tier airflow case comes out in the next few months.
Yeah that sounds fine.
The "pressure" level doesn't really matter too much. The front fans and the ones on the back of the radiator will be cooling the CPU and bringing air into the case then the three fans exhausting out of the top & rear plus the GPU will be pushing that hot air out.
I'd just add a couple fans to the top exhausting out. 140mm or 200mm either way will be fine. Leave the one in the rear unless you want to make it an RGB fan.
The front fans and mesh will draw in a lot of cool air, then the fans on the back of rad will help draw that through the radiator efficiently. I wouldn't worry too much about 'reducing airflow', those big 200mm fans on the front will do a lot of work and backed up by the rad, it'll be fine.
I just said 2 or 3 of the 140mm fans because they might be cheaper or easier to source with more options.
Getting another two of the case fans which I believe are the "MASTERFAN MF200R ARGB" should be fine along with the stock fan in the rear, will do fine in exhausting air.
Although you'd probably want to ensure you system has a good RGB hub to fit all that ARGB, which would be 4 fans that are all ARGB plus the X72's pump/cpu cooler block is also ARGB, and any LED strips you might add.
The other option you might want to consider is getting the Masterbox NR600. It is a budget case so there's some minor design flaws/omissions (eg no USB Type C) but it is cheaper, and if you put the AIO in the front you can move the front stock fan to the top and have good airflow, even better with one more bought fan.
Leave the stock fans in the front, install the X72 in the front mount so the airflow goes:
Case Interior <- AIO Fans <- Radiator <- 200mm Fans
On any case with good airflow from the front, AIO's are best placed there because it gets fresh air from outside the case, not hot air from the GPU and other components.
Add two or three 140mm fans in the top as exhausts.
On a budget I'd go with the be quiet pure wings 2 PWMs.
Mid-range I'd look at the Noctua NF-P14S Redux 1500 PWMs.
Upper range/RGB then Noctua's Industrial PPC or Original fans, Corsairs Maglevs, although Thermaltake Pure 14's are ARGB and come in a 3 pack for a pretty cheap amount.
If you don't want to spend more on fans and just want what to do with a stock config + your AIO, just leave the front and rear fan as is, and install the AIO in the top of the case with the fans below the radiator blowing upwards out of the case eg
How easy was it to install the Radiator into the front of the case? I'm considering this case and EVGA 280 radiator.
Z390 Taichi (or Ultimate if you want 10gb nic).
Reliability has been fine apart from a few early issues with bios updates causing instability early in the life of the board, but the bios version 1.80 has been perfect for me since then.
Apart from that minor issue, I've been using it daily and it's been fine. Runs SLI and my audio card no worries, NVME is perfect, the sata SSD is good.
Super 2060 should do the job, assuming it's a 1080p monitor.
try moving the computer to the tv? hdmi cables can be pretty long.
Do you have any other monitor to try? It wouldn't surprise me with an old monitor and using a converter that there might be an issue with the monitor.
Do you have a television with a HDMI input that you could try?
This might be a silly thing, but you haven't plugged the cable into the motherboard? I know you said you disabled the iGPU in the bios, but you could have accidentally left it in the motherboard and not moved it to the graphics card. Does the graphics card have it's internal power connectors in properly?
Reset it back to default on that firestorm app then uninstall it.
Use msi afterburner instead.
Wait for a partner fan with a non-**** fan.
In your situation I'd go cablemods and make sure you get a very long CPU power and 24 pin cable.
Super 2060, Super 2070, Super 2080.
The super 2060 is about as powerful as a regular 2070, super 2070 is about as good as a regular 2080. The Super 2080 will be a midpoint between a 2080 and a 2080 TI. Super 2080 looks like launching at the end of this month.
There's no confirmation that they will be doing a Super 2080 TI. But I wouldn't put it past Nvidia if their next-gen series isn't going to be out until mid-way through 2020 or even 2021.
9900k is better for gaming, and it'll do just as well for streaming/recording videos.
Fractal Meshify S2
I wouldn't say "replacing", I'd say "being added to the product stack". The regular 2070 & 2080 will still be around after the Super versions launch they will just get discounted to move units until they are out of stock.
2080 Super out on July 23rd apparently.
2080 TI Super will probably depend on how Nvidia think Ampere is going, and if they want a new halo product to fill the year long time gap between the Super launch and the 7nm Ampere generation which is rumoured to launch mid-2020 at the earliest. Maybe we'll get a Keanu Reeves Super RTX 2080 TI in late 2019/early 2020 to push cards for the Cyberpunk 2077 in April launch which is obviously the biggest hyped game in a long time, and once that is done they will move on to the 7nm series.
Unless you need a high end card then wait until the new AMD card embargo drops (this weekend i think) regardless of what you want to do and reputable reviewers can compare them directly. It's looking like the 2070 Super is going to be a sweet spot for performance while AMD will be lesser performance but lower pricing.
If you do want a high end card then you can get a 2080 TI comfortable in the knowledge that nothing but a Titan is getting near it for a while. The 2080 Super isn't going to match it for sure, and a 2080 TI Super isn't likely to be that much of an improvement.
waiting for super 2080 ti
upgrading for cyberpunk so have almost a wait I can wait if to see.
Wait until the middle of July. By then RTX Super should be announced and the new AMD stuff.
What card do you have now?
I have this in my system. Works fine.
We don't even know if there's going to be a 2080ti Super yet.
Fractal Mesihfy C or S2.
Get two Noctua Redux NF-P14S 1500 PWM fans for the front.
Move the existing 120mm to the top and buy a NF-S12B redux-1200 PWM to go alongside it.
Note this won't be the best looking thing so if you're worried about aesthetics or want to match RGB colourings then you will need to go another direction.
Get the Ultrastar.
Says out of stock, but the Samsung one is fine especially if it was at half price or similar.
Fractal Meshify C or Meshify S2.
Do you have any reason for the OC?
AMD hype train in effect. Slower performance but MOAR COREZ!!111!11 at maybe 25% of the price of Intel. Big deal.
Fractal Meshify S2.
CPU in the front, GPU in the top.
If you don't like the look of the Corsair I'd definitely pick the Ducky then.
reviews say it's very good
How much is a logitech c922?
Most pros use Zowie or Logitech mice. The most common are Zowie EC2-A and newer EC2-B, and Logitech with their G Pro Wireless being heavily favoured, with the G403, G703, G903 also being used.
The G Pro Wireless and the G903 are both horrendously expensive (frankly, any good peripherals are horrendously expensive here in AU/NZ, especially if they are wireless) and would probably be beyond your $200 limit. You could probably get a G903 from Amazon US for maybe 175 NZD with shipping.
That said, I have a G903 (which was an RMA for a busted G900) and the powerplay mat and believe it's one of the best mouse ever made. A lot of people also say that about the G Pro.
The Glorious Model 0 is from a new company and still has teething problems and it probably has poor support around AU/NZ so I wouldn't risk it.
I would suggest the G703 which you can get from Mightyape for $138 NZD. If you're new to PC you probably won't even be able to appreciate a $200+ mouse anyway for a while.
Keyboard I'd pick something with Cherry MX Red switches like a Corsair K68 (although that's not RGB) and only has Red lightning or Strafe.
Maybe this for a Ducky KB. $189 which is well below Corsair boards.
You could get the Ducky & K703 for $316 plus shipping. Which is well below your overall budget of $450 to $480.
also some game engines load up to run a menu as a moving background like world of warships.
24 degrees at 4.7ghz seems really low to me.
I'm actually looking at doing a final upgrade when I get a new GPU around the time Cyberpunk 2077 comes out, where I get a new CPU Cooler for my 9900k (I have an oldish Nepton) and case with it. I'd been looking at getting that exact GPU as well.
If I were buying now I be getting an EVGA CLC 280 for a CPU cooler and a Fractal Meshify S2 for a case with the CPU on the front intakes and the AIO exhausting up top.
Other suggestions. That PSU is overkill. A Prime 850W will be more than enough and saves $65 or so. Even with heavy overclocking a 9990k + 2080ti system will hardly draw more than 650w.
I know it's a lot of extra cash so you might not want to do it, I would replace your mouse & mousepad with the Logitech G903 and Powerplay mousepad. It's such a quality of life improvement to leave wired behind AND leave needing to connect the mouse to a wire for charging behind.
I'd ditch the headset and get a good set of headphones like the Audio Technica ATH-AD900X (or drop down a level to the ATH-AD 700X which is almost as good but almost half the price) and get a stand alone mic. You'll save $100 with that.
Lastly, that monitor is good, but the Acer Predator X34P is a lot better. ISP panel, GSync, 3440x1440p res at 120hz for not a great deal more right now. You won't miss the 45frames over the top of 120 but I guarantee you will massively appreciate the panel quality and resolution.
Do you have a reason for wanting to upgrade? What FPS are you getting now and do you consider it acceptable? Is it impacting your gameplay?
And if it's not acceptable, are you decreasing graphics settings to try and get a higher FPS?
980 or 980ti?
I love when websites take a site that looks and works fine and ruins it for no reason. Although I assume the new layout is designed for an insane amount of ad space, based on the empty areas on the wings and top of the site.
9700k or 9900k. That simple.