As far as I can tell, your GPU has much lower bandwidth than my RTX 2070, so yeah, you'll have no worries from using that GPU with a second SSD on that motherboard.
You know what, I really don't notice any difference with the games I play. I mainly play Forza 4, and with the frame-rate open and v-sync turned off, it seems to run really smoothly - no tearing that I can see. That's with G-Sync compatibility turned on, of course. I wouldn't buy the monitor for FreeSync / G-Sync, but I'm happy that nVidia started to support it, though I can't say for sure it's changed my life in any way!
It sure does. Not a problem with the RTX 2070. I'm not sure if that would bottleneck an RTX 2080Ti?
Are you sure both power cables, the 24 pin (ATX_PWR1) and the 8 pin (CPU_PWR1), are connected up correctly?
Also, what do the EZ Debug LED lights on the motherboard tell you?
Thank you. I was just concerned that game / software specific settings might override / interfere. I'll give it all a go and see what it's like!
Thanks for the reply. I do indeed have the display hooked up with Display Port.
So, if I set the following in Forza 4, will G-SYNC or Free Sync just kick in?
Frame Rate: Unlocked
Vertical Synchronisation: Off
Thank you again!
Ah, I should have Googled it, shouldn't I?! Thank you for that link, I'll have a look through! :)
There's a whole section in the user guide that describes the pins on the F_PANEL connector. Looks pretty straight-forward.
Are there any connectors in particular from your case that you're unsure about?
Is there anything in the Windows Event Log?
Control Panel > System and Security > Administrative Tools > View event logs
Refer to: Windows Logs > System
Yup, this is expected with some UEFI firmware: the first entry is the UEFI friendly name for UEFI booting and the second is for BIOS compatibility booting.
Cloning technically means creating a like for like HDD "clone" from your old HDD. Imaging involves taking a sector by sector copy of your HDD and storing it in an image / file, from which you could create a clone later if you wanted. If you do a straight forward file copy within the OS, from one device to another, there's a chance you might miss something, though there are ways around that, using switches on the XCOPY or ROBOCOPY commands, for example. IMO, imaging is "safer" than copying files, in that you'll get a copy of everything that was on your HDD, including system and hidden files and any other bits and bobs, and you can mount that image any time in the future and copy stuff off. You will, of course, need storage free somewhere to store your image!
Your 2600X comes with a Wraith Spire stock cooler included in the box. If you clean off the stock paste and replace with something fancier, like Thermal Grizzly, you might find it does the job just fine. I've also read that there's very little OC headroom with the 2600X and 2700X (which I have), given the efficiency and effectiveness of the Ryzen 2nd gen Boost technology.
I have two M.2 slots on my ASUS B450-I board and I've filled M.2_1 with a Samsung Evo 970 1TB and M.2_2 with a Crucial P1 1TB. I install OS and essentials on the EVO and games and other stuff on the Crucial. The combination works great for me!
I had to replace a faulty stock Wraith Prism cooler on my Ryzen 2700X. I took the opportunity to clean the replacement cooler and CPU thermal paste with isopropanol alcohol and replaced it with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut paste. My idle and load temps, based on the previous stock paste on an equivalent cooler, were reduced from around 47-50 to around 32-37. My advice would be to do it, if you have the paste to hand and the opportunity to do so, but remember to clear the old paste off first.
The "VGA" light definitely suggests GPU issue - I have similar diagnostic LEDs on my MB and had a similar problem, for me because I hadn't yet fitted my graphics card!
Have you defo got the right cables from the PSU into the GPU? If the GPU is mounted in the MB, all I can think of is a problem with power to the GPU.
You got HDMI or DisplayPort coming from the GPU to your monitor?
When you say you "got an .iso", did you use the Windows 10 tool to create a bootable USB from it? Did you ensure that your USB device takes boot priority within your BIOS?
Really nice build! Love the custom paint job! Nice tidy build too, so a win all round I'd say!
First things first, don't install ANYTHING on your formatted drive. If you do, you'll greatly reduce your chances of recovering the content (new files may overwrite locations on the drive that might otherwise have been recoverable). You could try something free like Recuva, see if you can recover anything - chances are pretty good if you did a quick format and haven't used the drive since. You'll need to create a separate OS installation so that you can boot your PC and attach your formatted boot drive as a secondary device. Or use another PC with your boot drive attached. There are a bunch of other applications that you could download and try. Otherwise, you may have some luck with 3rd party data recovery, but it'll cost you.
That is weird - someone posted what I think is this very issue earlier on:
Hey, been following your new threads with interest! Well done on getting it all up and running! Fantastic! :)
Is the GPU fully connected to your PSU? Some cards have a single 8 pin PCIe while some require an 8 and a 6.
Pages 1-2 and 1-3.
Fingers crossed from here too! Let us know how it goes!
This might help:
It suggests that you can use CPU_OPT for your 4th fan.
Hey, no problem at all! Come back here if you get stuck. My advice would definitely be to take your time and read both the MB and Case user guides back to back. Also, think about your power and cabling needs. It can be quite scary but it's REALLY satisfying when that bad boy boots up for the first time! :)
As per thunder-93's suggestion, yes, you could put the two new 140mm fans on the front and move the pre-installed front fan to the top rear.
You probably just need to remove the front cover to get at the fan screws:
From what I understand, the Evo 970 is essentially the same as the 960, but uses the NVMe 1.3 protocol, compared to the 1.2 protocol of the older 960. No idea why the 960 is more expensive! I have a 1TB 970 Evo and it is an incredibly fast drive!
I'd go with a single 1TB 970, if I were you. If you later decide you need more, you can fill the other slot with a second 1TB drive. Not a lot of advantage of splitting over two drives, other than a small cost saving, and you're then left with no free slots for future expansion.
The user guide for that case is pretty poor, right enough! It does, however, call out a 2.5" location at the top of your case (for your SSD) and a 2.5 / 3.5" bay at the front of the case, at the bottom, for your HDD.
Awesome - I was sure I'd followed a YouTube guide when installing my Wraith, but couldn't find anything with a plain old search! Worth noting that, contrary to the vid and MB manual, the Prism comes with thermal paste pre-applied, so not required to apply your own paste.
Depends on your plans for them! Why did you buy them? Your case comes with two 120mm fans pre-installed, one front and one rear - are you aiming to replace those or supplement them? Your case supports a number of fan configurations. Whatever you do, make sure you're clear on your airflow plan - the fans can either draw in cool air or expel hot air. Your case user manual describes the permitted fan configurations.
A picture of the installation process - refer to my reply above
There are two brackets on either side of your CPU with two little blocks (refer to step "1" in your user guide).
Make sure the lever on the cooler is in the position shown in your manual - the metal clasps should be loose.
Line your cooler up, ensuring you can plug in the fan
header. Follow the alignment diagram in your manual, again step "1", using the AMD logo as a point of reference,
The cooler has two metal brackets that hang loose - fasten first one side bracket to the corresponding block on the board and then the other side. You may have to just wiggle the cooler and the clasps to make it sit nicely on top of the CPU and to get the clasps to sit over the blocks.
Once it's seated, pull the lever as shown in step "4" - this will pull the cooler down on to the CPU and lock it in place. You'll need to apply quite a bit of force, but don't be frightened! The lever needs to come down full to secure the cooler.
Plug in the fan and you're ready to go!
It's honestly really easy once you figure it out and you'll kick yourself for being nervous! I went through exactly the same emotions on my build - perfectly natural!
^ This! :)
Which fits with the OPs PSU having 20+8 ATX. Wasn't aware of that, thanks for the clarification!
Also, do you have a 24 pin- 24 pin cable included with your PSU that you can use to test?
It does sound like it's the wrong cable, yes. You need 24-pins on both ends, one goes into the PSU and one into the MB. How many pins IN TOTAL are on the two split connectors on your cable? Do the split ends slot together to form 24-pins?
Have you tried plugging all 24 pins into the PSU?
Yup, exactly. There are full step by step instructions, with illustrations, in the user manual for your motherboard. Your Wraith Prism cooler is a "type 1" assembly, as it's referred to in the guide.
If it makes you feel any better, I too failed to RTFM when I built my machine with an ASUS STRIX MB and ended up fitting the cooler the wrong way around! Just make sure you can plug the cooler fan into the MB when you're lining up the cooler.
Can you let us know what PSU you're using?
One 24 pin connector should go into your motherboard, the other 24 pin on the other end of that cable should go to your PSU. I suspect that is why your not getting POST. Is your cable split? Can you join up the two ends to form a full 24 pin connector?
Same deal for the 8 pin EPS / ATX cable - make sure you plug that into the correct port on your PSU, not a PCIE power port.
Page 18 looks like it has what you need to answer your other questions.
So, like my B450-I, your motherboard supports two M.2 form factor SSDs: M.2_1 (SATA or PCIe) and M.2_2 (PCIe only).
You're correct that M.2_2 is not SATA compatible - you'll see the placement of that slot in your MB manual, near the bottom right of the board. As you say, that's the one under the heatsink.
That Crucial SSD is SATA (not NVMe / PCIe) and so will need to go in your M.2_1 slot. If you want another SSD in slot M.2_2, it'll have to be PCIe / NVMe - you can't put a SATA drive into that slot.
If you did put something in there, a Samsung 960 / 970 for example, then I suppose you could technically RAID it with the other SSD to form a single logical drive - I don't think it would be a good idea, though, due to the speed differences of the drives. I don't think you'd get any performance gain from RAID anyway, so you'd just as well they were two separate volumes.
I have a 2700X with the stock Wraith Prism and I get around 35 degrees idle, with spikes up to 45, and around 65 degrees when hard gaming. I'd say you're absolutely fine with your temps there. Also, don't be scared - your machine will shut down if it gets too hot, so you're unlikely to do any damage if you're not OC'ing!
It's cheap but it's SATA3, not NVMe, so significantly slower than an NVMe M.2 drive. You'll also need power and SATA connections to run that drive, as well as a bay to mount it, whereas the M.2 simply plugs straight into the motherboard. That said, the MX500 is a decent SSD and a vast improvement over an HDD. It's all about your performance / cost ratio at this point!
GPU's are subject to the same behaviour as everything else in retail - supply and demand! Prices fluctuate, with all components, so you've just got to be a bit patient to get the deal that's right for you. This site has a great tool for analysing price variation over time so that you can gauge whether or not you're getting a good deal.
If you're looking for something around 21", 4K isn't worth it, IMHO. Your current GPU might struggle at that resolution too. I love my Ultrawide LG IPS and almost every game I've played now supports that resolution.
If I were you, I'd take a look at the RTX 2070 or RTX 2080 when you upgrade - much more bang for your buck compared to the old GTX 1080.
Stick your criteria into PC Park Pickers "Individual Parts" tool, under Displays > Monitors. Narrow it down based on your price bracket, and maybe the review scores, and you'll get some more ideas of what's good.
I used to obsess over defragging, back in the day! To be honest, I haven't used a defragger in years - mainly because all of my primary storage is now SSD. Whether there are any material performance gains in defragging HDDs nowadays, I've no idea.
A few things to help you decide:
If you answer those questions then that will really narrow things down with your budget alongside.
Looks like you've got plenty juice in your PSU choice - could it be overheating? You mention CAM - are you running CAM and have you set up case fan profiles? Are your case fans set up to exhaust hot air? NZXT have a mobile version of CAM that will allow you to monitor PC temps from your phone, so you could set that up and keep an eye on what's going on while your son plays. Also, agree that CAM is a nightmare but it does have it's moments!