He is the feature finder foretold by legend.

Yes, I also hope this is the case, but we'll see. Only good thing is that it is only audible during gaming, in which case I usually have headphones on :D

lets goo it’s featured

Well, it's a giant step up from my 16:9 1440p monitor. The only thing I don't like is that the plastic back pane makes feint crackling and popping sounds when it heats up/cools down. Kinda annoying when you don't have headphones on honestly. Maybe it will get better with time.

the cables are meant to look like that

Yeah, it saves a lot of space, but you can only fit the smallest pump/res combos in there or only a pump, so it's probably not the best position for a majority of builders.

I used a Dremel with an EZ Lock Cut-off Wheel to cut the hole, then used a needle file to get the shape right.

The steel sheet at the position of the hole is about 1.1mm thick. I have just tried cutting an excess 1.1mm thick piece of my case with diagonal pliers and I don't think this will work well. It does not really cut well and you need excessive force to get a cut with such a tool (possibly damaging it in the process). Given there's also not much space to operate with the tool, this will be a difficult feat to achieve. I also tried cutting it with tin snips, but this also does not work well and the tool is probably too big to even properly get it into the existing hole.

If you have a drill with roughly the same size of the existing hole you can drill a hole right next to it and remove the excess material between the two holes with a file. Or alternatively only use a needle file to enlarge the existing hole (might be a bit tedious and require some time but should work well).

Yeah it definitely does. Before manufacturing my own 12vhpwr I was like it can't be as bad as everyone says. After I was done, I understood why everyone thinks it's a bs design.

Haven't had a single issue with those sticks. XMP 6000Mhz worked stable straight out of the box without the need for any further adjustments.

Thanks. Yes that was the main goal. The frosted tubing helps a lot but I also added a tad of blue dye into the water which makes it look colder as well.

Worked out of the box for me with xmp. I did flash the newest bios though due to the 14900k so that might have helped.

I can't give you an exact count on all the fittings and stuff used. This will depend heavily on how you route your loop anyways.

Fitting wise I used the following:

• EK-Quantum Torque 6-Pack HDC 12 - Black (Used about 3 packs)

• EK-Quantum Torque Color Ring 10-Pack HDC 12 - Satin Gold (Just the accent rings to add to the fittings)

• EK-Quantum Torque Double Rotary Offset 21 - Black (One used below the GPU to align the tubing with the pass through on the PSU shroud)

• EK-Quantum Torque Pass-Through G1/4 - Black (Also used some older EKWB pass throughs as they are slightly more compact than the quantum ones)

• EK-Quantum Torque Plug - Black (Also used some minis in hard to reach places)

• EK-Quantum Torque Micro Rotary 90° - Black (Used a lot of those. There's not much room in the North so those save a lot of space)

• EK-Quantum Torque Extender Static MF 14 - Black (I used various rotary&static extenders around the res)

• EK-Quantum Torque Rotary T - Black (T piece used for adding a fill / drain port to the res)

That's about the most important parts I used fitting wise. Keep in mind that I also used some older EK stuff I had lying around in certain spaces due to space constraints. Some new quantum torque parts are a bit larger than the older generation.

As for tips:

• If you wanna build a full custom loop in the North case, you'll have to be ready to make some mechanical modifications to the case, especially If you wanna use the same rads as I did (See picture build log for more info on the modifications). If you are a total beginner on custom loops you might want to choose a bigger case to have more room for your loop without the need for mechanical modifications to the case.

• Plan your loop carefully before buying any parts. Make sure that the things you wanna mount actually fit in the case you plan to build in. Have a clear idea on where you want the tubes to go, which will also automatically give you a pretty good estimate on how many fittings, angles, etc. you'll need. I usually settle for a case first, then just buy the case to get the measurements right and to get a clear idea on how I wanna route the tubing and where I want to mount all the stuff.

• Same goes for sleeving. Plan where you want to route the cables to get an idea of how much wiring you'll need to buy. Also it's important to plan how many/which connectors you need for the build, especially on the PSU-side in case you work with a fully modular PSU. For sleeving you need proper tools to get the job done. A proper crimping tool, a wire stripper, lighter or heatgun, special tools to remove the various connectors from their housings (In case you make a mistake or want to use some connectors from your PSU cables).

• Also if you want to create custom cables for a fully modular PSU bear in mind that the pinout of the PSU is not standardized! (Event different PSU models of the same brand can have wildly different pinouts). In such cases you usually need to examine the wiring of the original cables to know how to wire up your custom cables. Also, never ever connect your custom cables to the hardware and your PSU before you have not made 100% sure that you did the wiring of your custom cables correctly. I usually check this by connecting the cables to the PSU only and then check the voltage output of each pin of the ATX connectors to make sure it conforms to the ATX spec.

For all the basics in custom loops or custom sleeving there's a plethora of useful information on the web. Best to read or watch some basic guides on the topics to get a good idea of what you'll need and how you'll need to do it.

Hope that helps. If you have specific questions about parts of the loop/sleeving in this build I'm happy to answer those too.

Worked out of the box for me with xmp enabled. No problems so far

I have a dual boot system with win 11 and pop os. What you see in the pic is the rEFInd boot menu that I use to select the OS to boot up. If you want to achieve the look, it's basically rEFInd with the (slightly customized) ambience theme (https://github.com/lukechilds/refind-ambience) and a custom background image.

You'll need to make mechanical adjustments to the case to be able to mount such a radiator (as seen in pic 19). In my case, the EK-Quantum Surface P360M X-Flow radiator just about fits in perfectly. It's sitting flush on the bottom of the case and on the top there is a tiny clearance of around 2mm. Additionally, the PSU shroud will get in your way, especially since the x360m is even thicker. So you'll also need to cut there (See Picture 21 bottom right for reference)

Not sure though if you can even get the rad into place, given it's thicker than the one I used. IIRC even with the p360m there was already little room in the case to get it into place.

No, I've used frosted hard-tubing